SEOUL, Korea — An enigma may be an apt description for Korea.

Telecommunication leaps ahead at light speed. Brands such as Samsung, Kia and Hyundai stir national pride. Koreans aggressively push English-language skills.

But for all of the changes, the Cold War remains evident some 50 kilometers from the capital city. Two-year mandatory military service is still the norm for most Korean men.

Imagine being in a Cold War environment for more than 50 years, a situation that feels as if time is standing still.

A visit to the Demilitarized Zone separating North Korea from South Korea is a stark reminder of the three-year conflict that began in 1950. The DMZ stretches for 155 miles across the Korean Peninsula from the East Sea to the Yellow Sea.

Tours to the DMZ allow visitors to walk into the building where armistice talks were held in 1953. Meetings are still held occasionally in the blue, cinderblock facility.

One side of a table is in South Korea, and a quick walk around the table places the visitor in North Korea. Outside the building and across the North-South barrier marker, a North Korean soldier stands on the steps of a concrete building, watching those who visit.

An observation post allows a quick glimpse into North Korea and a wooded field that is lined with land mines.

Heading back toward Seoul, which is 50 miles from the DMZ, the driver said that if the North Korean forces broke through, the bridges into the South are wired with explosives.

And for all of the technology that is used to track enemy movements, the DMZ fence is lined with barbed wire along the top and interspersed with white rocks. Guards constantly observe the rocks, looking for any that fall to the ground as an indicator of an intruder.

From the scene at the 38th parallel, where the separation between North and South Korea is drawn, to the streets of Seoul, visitors are ushered into a world of chic styles and more traditional fare.

Rice and other delicacies

Walking into the market in Insadong, a loud smack greets shoppers. In an open-air setting, two men are assembling rice-cake delicacies by hand. In a large, wooden bowl is a green mixture of streamed rice. Passersby are urged to take a swing with the oversized wooden mallet, pounding the rice into a fine mix. When pulverized, the rice is shaped and filled with red beans, sesame seeds or soybean flour and served with tea or other beverages.

For Koreans, nothing replaces kimchi, fermented cabbage that is the national dish. A Kimchi museum shares with visitors the secret of sprinkling red pepper and garlic on cabbage that is placed in a clay pot and buried in the ground. This 13th century technique is applicable to almost any vegetable. While in Korea you eat as the Koreans do, but a little kimchi goes a long way.

In China, a delicacy that has made its way to Korea is the larvae that come from silk cocoons. Either as singles or twins (they produce different silk), the larvae are steamed in a pot with water and served with a beverage or as a quick snack. For the silk larvae, one taste is one too many.

Locking together

Great attractions constantly look for new ways to extend the visitor experience.

For those who visit the Seoul Tower, the trip to the top of the world’s third tallest tower (360 meters) offers a panoramic view of the capital city. Rock City was the first attraction to allow tourists to see seven states, but the Seoul Tower goes one better — one can see the whole world by walking around the 360-degree enclosed platform with country names etched on the windows.

The foot of the tower is fenced, preventing visitors from rolling down a hillside. In the last six months, Tower operators decided to offer small, colorful locks for couples and families to purchase, sign and attach to the chain-link fence. Once firmly attached, the lock keys are tossed away, symbolizing a lasting bond.

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