published Wednesday, March 5th, 2008

Grilled cheese, please

Audio clip

Kelly Smith

What’s not to like about a grilled cheese sandwich: thick, gooey cheese captured between two crisp slices of bread?

It sounds simple enough, but finding the perfect formula can be a challenge. What kind of cheese? What kind of bread? Should it cook in butter or oil? And for how long?

For help creating the grilled cheese of our dreams, we turned to Blacky Smith, owner of Caffeine, where sandwiches are a specialty and grilled cheese in various forms is a house favorite.

THE BREAD

Any loaf will do, but firmer bread is preferable to a softer bread because it will stand up better during the cooking process. Mr. Smith always uses the sourdough bread from Niedlov’s because of its texture.

“It has a nice balance of firmness while staying crisp on the outside and soft on the inside when being grilled, without using any butter,” he said.

THE CHEESE

Again, go with what you like.

“It all depends on what flavor you want,” Mr. Smith said. “Almost any cheese will do.”

Softer cheeses, such as mozzarella, don’t need to cook as long because all the cheese will ooze out, he said. Cheeses of medium hardness, such as Swiss, Havarti and cheddar, need to cook a little longer, so keep the heat low.

“If the bread begins burning before the cheese is done, turn the heat down,” he said, adding that he prefers to use slices of cheese rather than grating the cheese.

“One nice slice is all you need,” he said.

OIL OR BUTTER?

Neither.

“The sandwich already has cheese on it,” Mr. Smith said.

But, he warned, you need to use a seasoned skillet to prevent sticking. If not, you may need to add a little butter or cooking spray. If you do use butter, lightly brush it on the outside of both pieces of bread. Otherwise, one slice will be drier than the other.

THE EQUIPMENT

Mr. Smith uses a panini press to make his grilled cheese sandwiches, but they can be rather pricey for the casual cook. A quick check at www.amazon.com had them selling for around $50.

A seasoned cast-iron skillet is an excellent option, perhaps even better than a press, he said.

Just keep one thing in mind: You should have two cast-iron skillets or some other heavy pan to press on top of the sandwich while it’s cooking, Mr. Smith advised.

“If you don’t press, the sandwich won’t stay together as well,” he said. “Pressing it forces the heat into the sandwich, and it will melt the cheese a little faster.”

When ready to start grilling, make sure the press or skillet is preheated. It is better to cook a sandwich on low heat for a longer time rather than trying to do it quickly on high heat. This will keep the bread crisp and toasty without burning.

VARIATIONS

Caffeine’s menu is all about sandwiches. When opening the M.L. King Boulevard eatery, Mr. Smith “experimented with different flavor combinations from different recipes,” he said.

He came up with interesting takes on traditional grilled cheese, such as the pear, ham and Havarti grilled breakfast sandwich served every morning. For lunch, there’s a pimento cheese and grilled shrimp as well as caprese with sliced tomatoes and fresh mozzarella.

Bacon, onion and sharp cheddar are optional add-ins. Vegetarians might add sautéed mushrooms and onions to mozzarella.

“These are just guidelines, not rules,” Mr. Smith said. “Try any kind of cheese you want. Any kind of bread.”

To further your quest for a grilled cheese of a different sort, try these recipes from cooks.com.

Honey-Grilled Cheese Sandwich

2 slices wheat bread

1 slice Monterey Jack cheese

1 slice American cheese

1 tablespoon honey

Butter

Build sandwich; pour honey between slices of cheese. Spread butter on outside of bread slices. Grill until golden brown and cheese is melted.

Pizza Grilled Cheese Sandwiches

8 slices bread (white or wheat)

3⁄4 cup pizza sauce, divide

8 slices mozzarella cheese

24 thin slices of pepperoni

Assorted topping of your choice, such as onions, peppers and olives

2 tablespoons shortening, divided

Prepare sandwiches by laying out bread. Spread 1 teaspoon pizza sauce on top of each piece of bread. Place slice of cheese on top of 4 bread slices. Place 6 pepperoni slices on top of cheese. Top with your favorite ingredients. Cover with the other four slices of cheese and bread.

Melt 1 tablespoon Crisco in large skillet on medium heat, making sure entire surface of skillet is covered. Add sandwiches. Grill on first side until golden brown, 2-4 minutes. Add remaining Crisco. Let melt. Turn sandwiches. Press down with spatula. Grill on second side. Cut sandwiches in 4 pieces. Heat remaining pizza sauce. Serve as a dip with sandwiches.

Apple Grilled Cheese Sandwiches

4 slices cinnamon bread

2 teaspoons salad dressing or mayonnaise

4 slices cheddar cheese

1 small apple, cored and thinly sliced into 8 rings

1 tablespoon butter, softened

Spread 2 slices of bread with mayonnaise. Layer each slice with 1 slice of cheese, half the apple slices and another slice of cheese. Top each layered slice with another slice of bread. Spread outsides of each slice with butter.

Place on preheated griddle or skillet. Cook over medium heat for 6 to 8 minutes or until golden and cheese is melted, turning once. Serve immediately. Makes 2 servings.

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