published Wednesday, March 19th, 2008

Various seasonings can be used to flavor deviled eggs

Easter is the holiest of Christian holidays, so it’s interesting how the day’s meal traditionally features deviled eggs.

The concept of deviled eggs began in ancient Rome, according to www.foodtimeline.org. The name is said to be an 18th-century invention based on spices used to flavor them.

The devilish part for cooks, though, can be struggling to peel the shells from the whites and cooking the yolks to just the right firmness and without that icky green edge.

“There are two different methods that seem to work to get the yolks cooked and the whites firm but not tough,” said Michelle Huffman, owner of Events With Taste catering and The Palate Bistro Cafe at Hunter Museum of American Art. Either way, they’ll come out with no green, she promises.

Before you get started, there’s a little trick that will help to ensure the perfect boiled egg. The night before, turn the eggs sideways in the container. This will help center the yolk, giving you a perfect-looking egg, Ms. Huffman advised.

Ms. Huffman learned the first method of boiling eggs from her mother, Sue Huffman, “the queen of deviled eggs plates,” Ms. Huffman said. Over the years of making more deviled eggs than she can count for catering jobs and restaurant fare, Ms. Huffman has come up with a way she likes better. The two methods differ only in the technique used to boil them.

Method No. 1: Place eggs in the pan with cold water, keeping enough space for the eggs to move around. Add a couple of teaspoons of salt, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to strong simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and plunge in ice water to cool.

Method No. 2: Start with eggs in cold water, but when the water comes to a rolling boil, remove from heat and let sit in hot water for 30 minutes, then cool.

“Cooling the eggs quickly is the best way to prevent the greenish circle from appearing,” Ms. Huffman said. “The green color is actually a chemical reaction that occurs between the iron in the yolk and the sulfur in the white during the cooking process.”

Finally, she suggests always boiling more eggs than you think you’ll need because, inevitably, one will end up cracking or you may need more yolk to make more filling.

“Or you may just need to eat one before you even make the filling,” she said.

Here are a few of her favorite recipes.

Traditional Deviled Eggs

6 boiled eggs, shells removed and sliced in half lengthwise

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1 tablespoon yellow mustard

2 tablespoons pickle relish

Salt and pepper, to taste

Smoked paprika, for garnish

Remove yolks from whites and mash with remaining ingredients, except smoked paprika. Fill egg whites, garnish with smoked paprika and serve. Makes 1 dozen deviled eggs.

Curry Deviled Eggs

6 boiled eggs, shells removed and sliced in half lengthwise

1/4 cup mayonnaise

2 teaspoons pickle relish

1 teaspoon curry powder

1 tablespoon honey mustard

Salt and pepper

Dill and paprika, for garnish

Remove yolks from whites and mash with remaining ingredients, except dill and paprika. Fill egg whites, garnish with dill and paprika and serve. Makes 1 dozen deviled eggs.

BLT Deviled Eggs

12 boiled eggs, shells removed and sliced in half lengthwise

3 tablespoons crispy bacon, diced

1 tablespoon sun-dried tomatoes, diced

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons chives

1 tablespoon parsley

1 cup mayonnaise

1 teaspoon Worcestershire

Salt and pepper

8 ounces cooked chopped lobster meat

Old Bay seasoning, for garnish

Remove yolks from whites and mash with remaining ingredients, except Old Bay. Fill egg whites, garnish with Old Bay and serve. Makes 2 dozen deviled eggs.

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