Taking Sides: Niko’s continues tradition of the Southside Grill

ANNE BRALY: Southside Grill opened in 1993 to rave reviews and built up quite a reputation. Selling it to restaurateur Nick Kyriakidis did nothing to change that. Now, Niko’s Southside Grill continues to bring in a crowd, as witnessed by the packed restaurant we recently experienced. But I’m not surprised. The food is excellent, and service is pretty good, too. I really don’t know why I say the food (in general) is excellent, though, since I always order the same thing: Eggplant Napoleon. It’s really one of the most remarkable-tasting dishes, and it makes for a beautiful presentation, too.

HOLLY LEBER: It really was a lovely atmosphere, and I’m looking forward to going back and trying more of the dishes. I think I picked wrong this time, however. The Angel Hair con Pomodoro Verde (green tomato sauce, with herbs) was all right, but I think I would have enjoyed one of the other dishes, maybe the tomato basil soup, more. Pasta seemed to appeal but perhaps not. The shaved parmesan had melted, creating some cheese-pasta-herb clumps that were less than thrilling. Taste-wise, it was inoffensive but maybe a little too cheesy and oily. Besides, I think I’m more of a marinara or arrabiata woman (and don’t call it “red sauce,” that could mean cornstarch, water and red food coloring).

ANNE: You mentioned to me during lunch that your pasta dish was a little too cheesy and buttery. And I recall asking, “And the problem is?” That sounded like my kind of pasta! One thing that really impressed me about the menu were the choices of vegetarian dishes. I’m a meat lover, no doubt, but all of the vegetarian entrees appealed to me, just as the Eggplant Napoleon did with its crispy slices of eggplant, crunchy squash and marinara sauce. Maybe you should go with that next time.

HOLLY: There were definitely plenty of veggie options. Next time I’ll try the Napoleon or one of the salads and a soup. I think I just misjudged my own taste buds, honestly. It was a wrong pick. I always kind of kick myself for ordering pasta in restaurants. Really, what can they do that I can’t? I’m looking forward to next time. There was so much on the menu that looked appealing; I’ll definitely have to go back and try out some more dishes. And wine. We were on the clock so there was none involved in this meal, but next time ... Anyone want to join me?