published Wednesday, January 2nd, 2013

Mixing the South with the Middle East

To Southerners, black-eyed peas seem to have been around forever, but they actually didn’t make their way to America until the 18th century, a product of the slave trade.

Really a bean, black-eyed peas originated in Africa and found their way to ancient India and Asia thousands of years ago. As early as the 5th century, people were eating them for good luck at New Year’s.

It was during the Civil War that black-eyed peas became a staple of the Southern diet.

The story goes that, as the Union army stormed through the South, grabbing crops and livestock as provisions, they turned up their collective nose at black-eyed peas. The troops in blue considered them mere “field peas,” fit for livestock, not people.

So the left-behind black-eyed peas, paired up with greens, became a dietary staple of the surviving Confederates. This was, in fact, a stroke of singular good luck. Black-eyed peas are super-nutritious — high in potassium, iron and fiber and a terrific source of protein. Pair them with greens and you’re looking at an incredibly healthy dish.

In the South, each ingredient takes on symbolic value: The peas are coins, the greens are bills. Put some cornbread on the side and you’ve got gold, too.

This recipe is a mash-up not only of a traditional Southern favorite, but also of one from the Middle East. I’m talking about falafel.

These falafel are not deep-fried, but you’re not going to miss it. The crust is created by coating the falafel with panko breadcrumbs, then sautéing them. Don’t puree all of the peas, hold some back, then add them to the batter for texture later.

These falafels are “mini,” topped with a light, spicy garlic mayo instead of the usual tahini sauce. The finishing touch is chopped scallions, a nod to the greens part of the original good luck dish.

BLACK-EYED PEA FALAFEL WITH SPICY AIOLI SAUCE

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion (1 small onion)

1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic, divided

3/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

15 1/2-ounce can black-eyed peas

1 large egg

2 tablespoons well-stirred tahini

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 cup low-fat mayonnaise

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot sauce, or to taste

3/4 cup panko breadcrumbs

Chopped scallions, to garnish

In a medium skillet over medium, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the onion, reduce the heat to moderately low, and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until it has softened. Add 1 teaspoon of the garlic, the cumin, coriander and the cayenne. Cook for 1 minute, then transfer to a medium bowl.

Drain and rinse the black eyed peas. Pulse them in the food processor fitted with the chopping blade just until they are coarsely chopped. Remove 1/2 cup of the chopped black-eyes peas and to the onion mixture.

To the remaining black-eyed peas in the processor, add the egg, tahini and salt. Process until very finely ground, then stir them into the onion mixture. Cover and chill for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the spicy aioli. In a small bowl stir together the mayonnaise, remaining 1/2 teaspoon of garlic and the hot sauce. Set aside.

Once the black-eyed pea mixture has chilled, shape it into 18 patties (the mixture will be loose). Spread out the panko in a pie plate lined with waxed paper or parchment paper, then one at a time dip the patties into it to coat on all sides, lifting the paper on both sides to move them around. Shake off any excess.

In a large non-resistant skillet over medium, heat 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil until hot. Working in batches, add the falafel patties and cook until crisp and golden on one side. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and turn the patties; cook for 3 minutes, or until crisp and golden.

To serve, arrange the falafel patties on a platter and top each with aioli and a sprinkle of scallion.

Start to finish: 1 hour 10 minutes

Servings: 6 (makes 18 falafel)

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