published Tuesday, January 15th, 2013

Prada man is deliberately absent-minded for 2013

A model wears a ruffled shirt and contrasting plaids from Prada’s Fall-Winter 2013-14 collection.
A model wears a ruffled shirt and contrasting plaids from Prada’s Fall-Winter 2013-14 collection.
Photo by Associated Press /Chattanooga Times Free Press.
  • photo
    Contrasting collars, classic colors, plaids and checks are major trends in Prada’s Fall-Winter 2013-14 collection for men which debuted at Milan Fashion Week.
    Photo by Associated Press /Chattanooga Times Free Press.

Don’t think the Prada man is absent-minded just because one point of his shirt collar is tucked into the sweater, while the other is out.

It’s all quite deliberate.

Prada’s menswear for next winter features basic shirts, crew neck sweaters and trousers in a very classic color palate: blue, light blue, yellow and red. The shirts, often checked, some with ruffles and ribbons down the front, are worn purposely askew.

The collection aims to answer the question “what is daily fashion,” Miuccia Prada says backstage after previewing the collection Sunday, the second day of Milan Fashion Week. “Fashion is what you want to wear. The shirt you want to wear, the sweater you want to wear, what a human wants to wear.”

That is: not by chance.

The look recalls the past, when telephones were hardwired and typewriters were the vanguard of communications technology, but is made for men who rely on cell phones and laptops.

An urbanite, the Prada man enjoys a view of Milan’s rooftops from his apartment decorated with vintage Knoll furnishings. A Siamese cat lazily traverses the window sill as birds fly by and classical music plays in the background.

Models crossed a stage that recreated it all with precision, from Knoll mockups, models of modern and yesteryear technology, and projections of the Milan skyline.

Outerwear completes the look, from wool or leather overcoats, worn mostly open, to baseball jackets with knit waistlines. The collection was mostly unadorned. The only accessory: thick-soled, oversized shoes in shiny black or brown leather. Cropped pants and no socks accentuate the footwear.

As for the inspiration for the color scheme, Prada says it’s very specific but she won’t say what it was. ‘’Maybe you can guess,” she teased.

Though it looks back, the collection is absent nostalgia.

“One thing is nostalgia,” Prada says. “The other is knowing the culture of the past. Nostalgia I hate. The past inspires me.”

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