Side Orders: Waffles broaden their appeal to lunch, dinner, dessert

photo Anne Braly

Waffles were once a breakfast-only weekend treat, but times have changed. Now chefs and creative cooks are coming up with masterful ways to serve waffles that go far beyond butter and syrup, including incredible grilled cheese sandwiches.

Jeff Brakebill, owner of Aretha Frankenstein's on the North Shore, where some of the best and most outrageously huge waffles in town can be found, says waffles work equally well as bread when it comes to making sandwiches, bread puddings and other dishes because traditional breads and waffles use 90 percent or more of the same ingredients. And he should know. He's been experimenting with different ways to use waffles for at least 15 years.

"Waffles are really a form of bread by any standard," he says.

It's up to the consumer whether to use standard waffles or larger cousin, Belgian waffles, when turning them into sandwiches, he says.

"To each his own. I prefer Belgian for everything," he says. "And the sky's the limit. I love huge sausage, egg and cheese Belgian waffle sandwiches, as well as Belgian ice cream sandwiches."

His favorite, though, is Southern through and through.

"Belgian waffle with pulled pork, slaw and barbecue sauce. It's ridiculous."

If he had to name a close second, it would be more on the gourmet level: poached Copper River salmon, scrambled eggs and dill cream cheese with sliced cucumbers.

Like many cooks, Brakebill's mind works overtime coming up with different ideas. "It's what my brain does at 3 a.m.," he says.

One of his most recent is this one: A Belgian waffle topped with pan-seared foie gras, poached eggs and caramelized onions drizzled with a light hollandaise sauce. But you won't find it on Aretha's menu ... yet.

"Over the years, we've been asked to make a few crazy waffle sandwiches and dishes, but there is only one on our menu right now ... the Elephant's Gerald, a big Belgian waffle topped with ice cream, cinnamon, warm syrup and pecans."

On the book front, there's a new cookbook out offering more than 50 recipes that turn waffles into wonders, using them for pizzas, salads, ravioli, even cookies. There's also a complete tutorial on taking care of your waffle iron.

Here are a few suggestions on keeping it clean from author Daniel Shumski in his new cookbook, "Will It Waffle?" (Workman Publishing, $14.95).

• If you have leftover grease in the waffle iron, take a couple of slices of inexpensive sandwich bread, place them on the iron and close the lid. No need to heat it up. The slices will absorb most of the grease. Whatever is left over can be cleaned off with a weak vinegar solution.

• With the temperature on low, place a clean, wet dishcloth on the waffle iron for a minute. The steam will help loosen any stuck-on bits.

• With the waffle iron turned off, pour a bit of seltzer water on the grid and use paper towels or a dishcloth to wipe clean.

Finally, this recipe, from waffle iron manufacturer Chef's Choice, shows just how versatile waffles can be.

Key Lime Waffle Pie

3/4 cup Key lime juice

1 packet gelatin

7 ounces sweetened condensed milk

1/4 teaspoon vanilla

10 ounces white chocolate

2 cups heavy whipping cream

3 cups pre-mixed baking mix, such as Bisquick

1 cup whole milk

1 cup brown sugar

1/2 cup honey

5 tablespoons buttermilk

2 eggs

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/2 stick butter (4 tablespoons)

1 pack of graham crackers (10-11 graham crackers)

Turbinado or dark brown sugar, for garnish

Key lime slices, for garnish

Extra graham crackers, for garnish

To make the mousse that tops the pie, put lime juice in bowl and sprinkle in gelatin, stirring lightly. Let sit for 2 minutes. Heat lime juice mixture over low heat, until hot but not boiling. Take lime juice mixture off heat and set aside. Heat sweetened condensed milk over medium heat; add vanilla and white chocolate. Stir until chocolate is melted.

Whip heavy cream on high speed only until stiff, about 2 minutes. Add the lime juice mixture to whip cream and beat (with electric mixer) until ingredients are blended together. Add white chocolate mixture to the whip cream and beat until blended. Refrigerate mixture for 4 hours or overnight to stiffen.

For the waffles, mix together baking mix, milk, brown sugar, honey, buttermilk, eggs and cinnamon in bowl. Melt butter and add to mixture. Crush graham crackers until crumb size and add to mix. Mix all ingredients with electric mixer. Place 1/4 cup of batter on waffle maker. Bake for 2 1/2 minutes or until waffles are cooked through.

Serve immediately with a dollop of key lime mousse. Garnish with sugar, lime and graham cracker pieces.

For a luscious frozen dessert, spread mousse over top of waffle, cover in wax paper and freeze overnight before serving.

Contact Anne Braly at abraly@timesfreepress.com.

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