Catfish another of Champy's Delta specialties

I'm a big fan of Champy's chicken and tamales. They're such favorites, I wasn't sure I wanted to try anything else on the menu. But I'm glad I gave the catfish my attention on my last visit.

It proves that this charming little restaurant gets about as close to the Delta as any restaurant in Chattanooga from the minute you walk in the door.

THE MENU

Champy's has a simple menu that I find intriguing. It's just one page of entrees, with sides, beer and other beverages listed on the back. In a time when some menus are several pages long, this one, kept to a minimum, tells me one thing: Stick to what you know.

Rest assured, owners Seth and Crissy Champion know how to make fried chicken, tamales, catfish, Key lime pie and some of the best fried green tomatoes this side of the Mississippi.

The order: Fried catfish plate with coleslaw and fries.

Seth Champion goes to Tunica, Miss., every week to get the catfish. It's always fresh, never frozen, he said. And you can tell the difference.

The catfish is breaded very lightly, then fried to order. It came to the table steaming hot. In fact, I had to let it cool off for a couple minutes before I could really dig in. Four come to an order. The filets are large, and I could manage only two. The shoestring fries were very good; the coleslaw, outstanding.

A co-worker, making her first visit to Champy's, ordered the chicken, coleslaw and a side of the fried green tomatoes. She agreed with me that it's the best fried chicken in town.

If you goWhere: Champy's Famous Fried Chicken, 526 M.L. King Blvd.Phone: 752-3847.Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Wednesday, 11 a.m.-midnight Thursday-Saturday.Price range: $3.95 (two-piece dark chicken snack-$9 half-chicken plate with sides); $17.95-$35.95 (family meals with sides).Alcohol: Beer.

The tomatoes are so different from any I've ever had. Bite-size slices are pickled, then breaded and fried. What you get is bite after bite of tart, hot and crispy green tomatoes. Dip them in Champy's special sauce with its horseradish bite for a winning combination.

There was no room for tamales or pie on this trip. Luckily, though, when the mood strikes, I don't have to travel all the way to the Delta to pick it up.

THE SERVICE

Service is very personable at Champy's. If the Champions aren't waiting on you, you're in the hands of a friendly server who'll stop by your table with a tea pitcher in one hand, a plate of tamales in the other. This place is packed by noon each day, but the wait is never too long. Just remember, you meal is being made to order, so give it a couple of extra minutes.

THE SPACE

The large deck out front is often filled with folks wanting a cold brew on a hot day. Inside, the space is best described as eclectic with a mix of items from the Delta, as well as Chattanooga, such as a Mocs marching band jacket hanging on the wall. Two large-screen TVs are positioned so that most seats have a view of what's going on. But you'll spend most of your time just looking around at the people and the place. It's an old gas station that still shows some signs of its former life. The feel is laid-back and fun.

THE VERDICT

I'd drive across town to get Champy's fried chicken, passing some dedicated fried chicken restaurants on my way. Now I'll do it for their catfish. It's just that good.

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