Create a country plate at Dunlap's Cookie Jar Cafe

I'd really rather not talk too much about the Cookie Jar Cafe. It's a great place to eat, but the fewer people who know about it, the quicker I get a table.

You'll find it on the way to Dunlap, Tenn., off Highway 111. If you know where to look as you descend the mountain, you can see its bright blue roof and gravel parking lot surrounded by farmland. It's on a working dairy farm owned by the Johnson family. You'll pass a "Cattle Crossing" sign before you turn into the driveway.

THE MENU

Nine entrees are listed, including grilled pork chops, grilled or fried tilapia and spaghetti. Or you can do as the menu suggests and "create your own country plate" from four daily meat choices (catfish, meatloaf, fried chicken livers or chicken and dumplings) and some 20 hot and cold sides, ranging from pinto beans to Mexican cornbread salad.

Additionally, there's a special entree each day: baked chicken on Tuesday, pork roast on Wednesday, grilled ham on Thursday, chicken casserole on Friday, barbecue on Saturday, chicken and dumplings on Sunday. I can vouch for the chicken specials and about a third of the sides from previous visits.

There's also a soup of the day, main-dish salads ($6.49-$8.49), several appetizers ($4.49 each) and sandwiches and burgers ($3.49-$5.49). The eight all-time favorites, such as a grilled cheese sandwich, on the children's menu, are available for "kids of all ages" ($1.99-$2.99).

The order (for two): Ribeye with baked potato and house salad (mine); barbecue with potato salad and baked beans (not mine, but I sampled it).

The salad arrived with a basket of fresh yeast rolls. The rolls were yummy, the salad a basic blend of crispy iceberg lettuce, tomatoes and a couple strips of onion. The blue cheese dressing tasted homemade. The steak was cooked to order (medium), with just enough fat around the edges to make it flavorful.

We were told the barbecue would be served entree style, but it came in a sesame-seed bun and was a little dry. A few squirts of sauce helped the taste. The potato salad had an excellent taste and a nice, diced consistency. The baked beans had a delicious smoky flavor.

We filled up but can always make room for dessert. We went with the banana torte, made with banana slices and a pudding filling in a graham cracker crust. The whipped cream topping was sprinkled with pecan pieces. So good.

THE SERVICE

IF YOU GO* Where: Cookie Jar Cafe, 1887 Kelly Cross Road, Dunlap, Tenn.* Phone: 423-949-5852.* Website: www.johnsonfamilyfarm.com.* Hours: 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m. (Central) Tuesday-Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sunday.* Price range: $3.49 (chicken filet sandwich)-$13.95 (ribeye dinner).* Directions: From Chattanooga, take Corridor J to Soddy-Daisy, then Highway 111 toward Dunlap. Take the East Valley Road exit and turn right. Go one mile. Turn left onto Kelly Cross Road. Follow one mile to the restaurant on the right.

Our server was quick to seat us and attentive while taking and bringing our order. But once we had our food, she disappeared. That would have been fine had we not needed more barbecue sauce. That required a trip to the counter to make the request.

THE SPACE

The farmhouse-style building is filled with four-seat wood tables -- no booths. Separating the dining area from the kitchen are a small counter and two large glass cases where the day's desserts entice the sweet tooth.

The most notable feature is the namesake collection of cookie jars, literally hundreds lining a high shelf encompassing the room.

A wide porch along the front accommodates overflow crowds, with extra tables for dining a la carte when the weather's nice and rocking chairs to take in the barns-and-silos scenery.

THE VERDICT

The countrified vibe and Sequatchie Valley scenery make the Cookie Jar a favorite destination when I pop over the mountain, and it's the traditional stop for supper coming home from the World's Longest Yard Sale.

As much as I enjoyed my steak, I'm already wishing I'd ordered a veggie plate. Even on a full stomach, I believe I could eat a few white beans, turnip greens, mac and cheese and cornbread. I'll plan on that for the next trip.

Contact Lisa Denton at ldenton@timesfreepress.com or 423-757-6281.

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