Restaurant review: The Boathouse beckons with a boatful of flavor

The Boathouse's Voodoo Chicken is a quarter rotisserie chicken served with hot pepper dipping sauces, black beans and rice and pineapple.

The Boathouse's Stuffed Poblano Pepper appetizer is filled with rotisserie chicken, three cheeses, avocado, tomato and peppers. It's served warm, with fresh tortilla chips and a light salsa.

Boathouse Rotisserie & Raw Bar has been a part of Chattanooga's food scene for quite a while, its beginnings harkening to the end of the 1990s.

Located on the former Riverside Drive site of popular restaurant and nightclub the Sandbar, the Boathouse has one of the most ideal and iconic addresses in the Scenic City. Several generations of Chattanoogans once came here for cold beer, deep-fried shrimp and musical performances as disparate as former Kiss lead guitarist Ace Frehley, blues great Koko Taylor and guit-steel virtuoso Junior Brown, among many others.

Easily accessible from most anywhere around town, it's a prime spot right on the Tennessee River that offers the triple-threat option of after-work watering hole, family gathering place or romantic dining spot. The appealing backdrop of the river, mere feet away, means you'll probably observe majestic great blue herons, Canada geese and other wildlife puttering along the shoreline, as well as the requisite procession of walkers, runners and cyclists that keep the adjacent Tennessee Riverwalk moving as one of the city's preeminent outdoor draws.

THE SPACE

The Sandbar structure is long gone. What stands in its place is casual-classy. The Boathouse's interior is open, with a high ceiling that features various pieces of nautical craft and memorabilia, There's a midsize bar toward the front and lots of windows throughout that let in natural light and views of the river. A patio rings the dining room, offering even more immediate views of the water and its trappings. On this visit, we opted for an early Sunday lunch on the patio on a typically brisk November day. The patio was glassed in for winter and cozily warmed by ample propane deck heaters.

THE FOOD

Not surprisingly, the Boathouse menu emphasizes seafood and lots of variety. From New Orleans-style barbecue shrimp to fried catfish to grilled salmon and trout amandine, all bases are covered. They also have a weekly special on Mondays offering raw oysters at half price.

The Rotisserie Brisket and Wood Grilled Rib Eye almost made the cut this time, but we opted instead to try the Poblano Pepper appetizer ($11), Gingered Chunky Chicken salad ($10) and the Voodoo Chicken ($15).

The poblano appetizer was stuffed with rotisserie chicken and three cheeses and topped with avocado, tomato and peppers. They serve it warm, with fresh tortilla chips and a light salsa. This concoction is one of the best dishes I've had in a long time because the ingredients blend perfectly. Add another pepper, and this would be a standout on the entree list.

The Gingered Chunky Chicken was served on a bed of mixed lettuces and tossed with grapes, apples, toasted pecans and a creamy dressing. It's an imaginative take on classic chicken salad and not too heavy.

The Voodoo Chicken consisted of a quarter rotisserie chicken served with hot pepper dipping sauces, black beans and rice and pineapple. The chicken was grilled to perfection - an ideal combination of crispy and tender that is elevated to new heights when drizzled with the tangy pepper sauces. Voodoo Chicken has some heat, but it's not that spicy. The grilled pineapple and black beans and rice complement it well.

THE SERVICE

Our server, Rachel, was friendly, attentive and never intrusive throughout the meal. All courses were served hot and accurately with minimal wait.

THE VERDICT

The Boathouse is a welcome alternative to local eateries that do a competent job of serving good food but lack the atmosphere and attention to detail that can make a good dining experience transcendent. A+

Email Chris Zelk at czelk@timesfreepress.com.