If you go
› Where: The Daily Ration, 1220 Dartmouth St.› Phone: 423-355-5372.› Website: thedailyrationchattanooga.com.› Hours: 7 a.m.-2 p.m. for breakfast/brunch; 5 p.m.-midnight for dinner.› Price range: $7-$14 (lunch or dinner).› Alcohol: Full bar.
It seriously pains me to say I never made it to the Farmer's Daughter. I try to check out each new Chattanooga restaurant. I love food, and I love new adventures even more. So when The Daily Ration took its place, I was determined to go.
THE SPACE
From my very brief glance around upon entering (we were starving!), this incarnation looks like an unadorned cross between a coffee shop and an old-school pharmacy. The space seemed simple but was bright and airy. Noticing the large covered patio area through the roll-up doors flanking the front, we decided to take advantage of the day's slight breeze. It was, after all, brunch time.
The patio is probably three times the size of the restaurant, and there were several other tables outside; mostly new, young parents sharing the shaded sunshine and brief bit of downtime with friends as their children played.
THE MENU
The menu is simple. Like, sandwich simple. I thought it was because it was brunch, but upon inspecting a model dinner menu - they regularly change it, our server told us - it showed the same sandwiches, but in place of items like eggs and biscuits, there were a few appetizers: pimento cheese ($7), hummus ($7) and charcuterie with assorted cheeses, fruit and house pickles ($14).
The seven sandwich options include the Belly BLT ($10), a pork belly BLT with tomato jam, Bibb lettuce and aioli on a challah bun; Granny's Chicken Salad ($10), which includes my favorite additional ingredient, grapes; the Southern Staple ($7), their homemade version of pimento cheese; and the Alibi Burger ($10), which adds tomato jam, lettuce, pimento cheese and pickles to the traditional take.
I'll admit, I was a little surprised by the simplicity. When doing a review, I typically try to get something that seems unique or signature. In this case, that would probably be the Drop the Beet Reuben ($10), which pairs roasted beets with house kimchi, Havarti cheese and Russian crème fraiche served on rye. But I wasn't sure I could commit. Beets are not one of my go-to veggies. I have experimented with them in the past, but I've found they're either hit or miss. So I asked our server for his recommendations. Either the Sir Reuben ($10), which subs house corned beef for roasted beets, or the brunch-only Avo Toast ($8), he told me. So I bit the bullet and went with the latter: an open-faced sandwich with smashed avocado, roasted beets and a sprinkling of chili-lime salt. To fortify my selection, I added an old standby: cheddar grits ($4).
THE ORDER
The portions seemed small, but the flavors were pretty big and well-paired. Everything seemed fresh. I definitely did not feel bad about brunch, which is a first.
My boyfriend got the Club Ration ($10): deep-fried turkey, Applewood-smoked ham, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato and Cajun aioli, opting for sourdough over multigrain bread. There was some debate about which of the four sides he should choose. The two main contenders were the couscous and goat-feta salad or the quinoa and sweet-potato salad (both $5 on their own or complimentary with a sandwich) - but he settled on the couscous. It was the only thing I tried from his plate, though his sandwich was definitely pretty. The big pearls of couscous were flecked with cucumbers and tomatoes, and the compilation had a light, fresh flavor, as opposed to the blandness one might expect. I'm not sure what the main flavor agent was, but each of the ingredients was discernible, one giving way to the next.
The predominant flavor in my sandwich was of course the roasted beets, their earthiness framed by a subtle sweetness. I ended up knocking just a few off looking for a bit more balance. The salt rimmed the plate instead of topping the sandwich. When paired with a bite, it became a whole new ballgame. I'll be honest: I ended up running my finger through the remaining salt like a child after my sandwich was gone.
The cheddar grits were exactly what I was looking for: creamy and a bit salty. I like mine more like paste than like porridge, and the consistency was as spot-on as the flavor. The green onions topping it added a new dimension. Even though they were just a garnish, I found myself wishing for more.
THE SERVICE
Our server was friendly and unassuming, making the experience feel more like snippets of a brief dinner conversation with a new acquaintance. He was attentive but not overly so, checking back after dropping off our food and making sure we were still good on drinks.
THE VERDICT
The day after our trip, it came up in conversation at some friends' house. They said they'd been almost every day since The Daily Ration took over several weeks ago, trying everything on the menu. I was surprised. It's not that our meal was bad; it just wasn't what I expect when I'm paying $40 for food and drinks. One of my first jobs was in a deli, so I can make a pretty mean sandwich. I prefer to pay for meals I can't make at home or don't have the time to.
That being said, the freshness was undeniable, and it's not every day you find a place where you can have an artisan sandwich with a glass of just about anything you want. (A meal isn't a meal to me without a glass of wine or a mimosa.) So while I know this won't become one of my go-tos, if I'm in the mood for something light and fresh, I'd go back.
Contact Jennifer Bardoner at jbardoner@timesfreepress.com or 423-757-6579.