Restaurant review: Dinner and a view at 3rd Deck Burger Bar

For something relatively simple, a burger can be a lot of things. You've got your fat ones, flat ones, overcooked ones and juicy ones. There are burgers on the backyard grill, mass-cooked ones at the church picnic and concession-stand varieties at the ballgame.

There are burgers that serve as a quick meal, and then there are burgers that are the star of the dining experience. You know the kind, the ones that make you launch into your best Samuel L. Jackson as Jules Winnfield eating a Big Kahuna Burger: "This IS a tasty burger."

We won't even talk about the ones you get at most drive-through windows, though they serve their purpose, and if the toy is cool, all the better.

Now, if you can get a tasty burger in a cool place with one of the more unusual settings in town, you have a hit.

That's what the 3rd Deck Burger Bar has going for it. A good burger in a bar right on the river. Located wait for it on the third deck of Pier 2 at the Landing, the arrival/departure staging area for the Southern Belle riverboat at Ross's Landing. You don't have to book a cruise to enjoy the 3rd Deck. It's a good place for lunch or dinner, a happy-hour meeting place, a class reunion or just to hang out.

In the interest of full disclosure, I've known the Reinhart family, the riverboat's owners, for many years, and they are hard-working people with years of experience aboard the boat and in the food services business.

THE MENU

The burgers are the star, but you can get appetizers and snacks like nacho chips and wings, as well as salads with homemade dressings.

The sides include fries, coleslaw, chips and beans.

You decide what goes on your burger by filling out the menu checklist. The burgers are made with a half-pound of Black Angus beef, and they are prepared medium-well.

There is also a chicken breast sandwich and a vegetarian burger. I've become partial to veggie burgers and will try one of those next time.

THE ORDER

I got the burger, of course, and I got it simple this time. Just pickles, tomatoes and a slice of Swiss cheese. I added a little ketchup upon arrival. Let the meat do all of the hard work, right?

One way some of us judge a burger is via the napkin test. The number of napkins required, the better the burger. This was a three-napkin burger, which is pretty darn good. Some cooks use the spatula as a steam roller and flatten the burger while it browns. This squeezes out the juice and makes the meat tough.

Letting it sear in its own juices keeps the flavor in. Sure it's messier, but it tastes better - and this was a tasty burger.

Fries are another art form to some of us. I like mine crispy to the point of being almost burnt. In fact, I'll eat the burnt and charred ones first. I like 'em. There were no overcooked fries in this batch, however. The fries here were more like potato wedges. The skin was left on, and they were just right.

THE SPACE

As mentioned, the 3rd Deck is right on the river, with indoor and outdoor seating. There are several large tables that can easily be put together for large groups, along with leather couches and chairs, a good-size bar, darts and big windows looking out over the Tennessee River. I went for a lunch meeting and was reminded just how easy it is to find parking across the street and walk over for a bite. There is plenty of parking on the street or in the lot at lunchtime. If you have time, you can take a short walk along the river.

THE SERVICE

No need to belabor it. Service was simple, fast, friendly and efficient.

THE VERDICT

It's not fancy dining and not meant to be. It's just good, and the setting is hard to beat. Take a group and have a good time.

Contact Barry Courter at bcourter@timesfreepress.com or 423-757-6354.