If you go
› Where: Cashew, 149-A River St.› Phone: 423-355-5486.› Website: www.cashewchattanooga.com (also on Facebook).› Hours: 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Thursday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Friday.› Price range: $9-12 for main dishes; sides are $3.75 each.› Alcohol: No.
"Which is better?" a customer asks. "The nachos or the meatball sub?"
Looking down to find my debit card, I think I've walked into the wrong place. This is supposed to be vegan, right? The large painted chard leaf on the wall and the "gluten-free" signs suggest I'm right, but it isn't until I look at the menu that I'm fully convinced that this is the same Cashew.
Though the restaurant isn't new to North Shore, it reopened Aug. 18 after closing previously this year so that its owners could focus more heavily on marketing their homemade cashew cheese. Why? Overwhelming customer support.
From the classics, such as nachos, pizza and hoagies, to the more adventurous fare, including jackfruit barbecue and beet burgers, Cashew's plant-based menu inspires and encourages all kinds of palates to try their favorite fare vegan-style.
Its previous and current partnerships, with such places as Niedlov's, Mojo Burrito, Revelator Coffee Co. and Pura Vida - are a testament to local and sustainable cooking practices around the city.
THE FOOD
The menu, while not wholly different, is smaller. No vegetarian jargon - it is simple, much like the place itself. The smaller menu allows Cashew to focus on in-season options, according to its Facebook page.
I must confess: I have an obsession with beets. The summer veggie has made first blush on several menus around town, most notably a Drop the Beet Reuben at The Daily Ration. So when I saw the popular Beet Burger ($10) on the Cashew menu, I was sold.
Beets are tangy and earthy, but Cashew's take is mild, making the vegetable a part of the patty, and clean - not overly juicy as beets can be - with tomato and lettuce. While it beats the tired black-bean patty used for so many veggie burgers, I was left wanting something more. Then again, I like my food to pack a punch.
Instead of a normal side, I opted for garlicky kale, the more daring of my choices. While a little on the heavy side in terms of flavor, if you're a kale critic, I ask you to try this. Neither bitter nor coarse, the side dish was the shining moment of my entire lunch, a perfect pairing for the mild burger. I'm surprised they don't have them already paired on the menu.
Even with my reservations, I cleaned my plate and went back for a gluten-free peanut butter cookie to go.
With the rotating specials and featured pizzas on Friday nights, I'm eager to see where Cashew takes this new beginning and how the seasons will shape its flavors. There's no denying that the food is high quality and creative.
And if you're looking for cheese options, you can buy their brand, Cha Cha Vegan, inside in 8- and 16-ounce containers.
Cashew came back because of the community, and its owners are strong proponents of showing how a plant-based diet can add variety to all diets.
Cashew's family dinners are a perfect way to get ideas for your own cooking. The next one is Sept. 17, and they occur monthly.
THE SPACE
Cashew is a peaceful, café-style eatery, with indoor and outdoor seating, perfect for the cooler days ahead. I sat at the small bar facing the window. With a book in front of me and burger to the side, it was a good way to wind down from the high-strung workweek.
Service is minimal, and the tables are self-bused. "Low-key" to a "t", Cashew is subtle and not heavily populated during most hours. Delivery orders are popular, though, so don't be surprised to catch yourself people watching the occasional customer or eavesdropping on new order combinations.
THE VERDICT
If you're looking for a way to add veggies into your meal, to try something new or just looking for good food, Cashew is your place. While it's not the cheapest option, it scores average in the date-night options, with most main dishes between $7 and $12. You can't beat the location - a minute walk from the base of the Walnut Street Bridge - or the desserts: cheesecakes (made with their famous cashew cheese), doughnuts and cookies. Oh my.
I'm hopeful that they keep pushing the boundaries of vegetarian cooking.
Contact Cameron Morgan at cmorgan@timesfreepress.com or 423-757-6509.