The menu ranks drinks on a scale modeled after the London transit system's route maps. Drinks are ranked from classic to adventurous, breezy to boozy and delicate to bold. Take a walk down Cherry Street, and as you pass commercial buildings, a smattering of cars parked along the street and the trendy Mad Priest coffee shop, you'll eventually - and abruptly - encounter a bright red British phone booth.
The phone booth, the most flamboyant aspect of the experience, leads into one of Chattanooga's newest bars, an intimate speakeasy named London Calling.
THE SPACE
Once visitors find their way through the phone booth, which opens into a small hallway, they must use an old rotary phone to dial into the main bar space. Dust off your history books before you go, folks, because to get in you must dial the number of the year Prohibition ended in the United States.
The main room of the establishment is minimal and intimate. A dark, hazy atmosphere sets the mood and allows visitors to feel transported into a secretive space. A long wooden bar provides ample seating, but small tables and chairs also allow for intimate group gatherings.
The vibe, though, is less Prohibition era compared to some speakeasies that really grab the 1920s' feel; but rather, transports you across the pond, especially when you find yourself staring at a cheeky photo of Great Britain's Queen Elizabeth II.
THE MENU
London Calling's menu boasts traditional, upscale cocktails along with wine and beers. The menu creatively uses a system modeled after London transit maps to rank drinks on scales between classic and adventurous, breezy and boozy, delicate and bold.
The namesake drink, the London Calling ($9), is adventurous but breezy and delicate at the same time. It features gin, sherry, fresh lemon juice, simple syrup, angostura and is garnished with a caper berry (not to be mistaken for an olive).
Old Fashioneds ($10), London Mules ($9) and even fishbowl-style group drinks served in teapots ($30) are also available. For the adventurous, Churchill's Breakfast offers a great whiskey drink and an experience, as bartenders light a cinnamon stick and then place the drink in a glass case to allow for a smoky hue before serving it.
London Calling is not for the party-goers who are ready to down a couple drinks at Happy Hour, but for sipping and catching up. The drinks vary in price, but most cocktails run between $9 and $14.
The menu also features martinis, British beers and various wines.
THE FOOD
With two friends along, we visited London Calling for a cocktail hour after work on a Friday. The crowd seemed to be a mix of young professionals and older folks stopping in for the same.
London Calling only recently began offering food: $6 hot dogs, such as the Dastardly Gentleman, which includes bacon, avocado and banana peppers, or the Phoenix Rising, which includes house-made hot chili sauce, blue cheese and crispy potatoes. The dogs are vegetarian friendly - guests can choose from a 100 percent beef hot dog or a 100 percent vegetarian "not-dog."
THE SERVICE
With plenty of space, the three of us sat at the long wooden bar on our visit. Multiple bartenders were available and seemed delighted to answer questions and help us decide what to try. Bartenders, some of whom were speaking in British accents, wore suspenders and some had caps to complete the old-time British feel.
Bartenders all seemed to serve the outlying smaller tables; but if a large crowd were to fill the space, it might be easier to order from the bar itself.
THE VERDICT
London Calling is definitely a unique experience for Chattanooga. It offers something more intimate than some of the bars that college students frequent nearby or the loud, live music venues on Chattanooga's Southside. Though one might not want to visit expecting to drink the night away or eat a meal, it's the perfect place for a cocktail date or after-dinner drinks.
Contact Meghan Mangrum at mmangrum@timesfreepress.com or 423-757-6592.