Florence: Northern Alabama's cultural mecca

Architecture fans will love examining Frank Lloyd Wright's attention to detail at his Rosenbaum House, a prime example of Usonian architecture which has been restored and filled with period furnishings. The only Wright home in Alabama, the L-shaped structure is built with natural materials — mainly cypress and brick — and its many glass walls seem to blur the boundaries between indoors and out. It became a museum when the Rosenbaum family sold the home and its original Wright-designed furnishings in 2002 to the city of Florence, which spent $600,000 restoring the home. (Contributed photo)
Architecture fans will love examining Frank Lloyd Wright's attention to detail at his Rosenbaum House, a prime example of Usonian architecture which has been restored and filled with period furnishings. The only Wright home in Alabama, the L-shaped structure is built with natural materials — mainly cypress and brick — and its many glass walls seem to blur the boundaries between indoors and out. It became a museum when the Rosenbaum family sold the home and its original Wright-designed furnishings in 2002 to the city of Florence, which spent $600,000 restoring the home. (Contributed photo)

Looking for a charming summer getaway without the hassle of a long-distance drive? Get your dose of laid-back Southern culture just three hours away in the surprisingly design-forward city of Florence, Alabama, which bills itself as "Alabama's Renaissance City."

Since 1992, more than $190 million has been invested in renovations to downtown Florence, where you'll also find beautiful historic homes and the flagship store of nationally known fashion designer Billy Reid (his Southern-classic designs can be found locally at Hanover Blue), who calls the city home. Located in the Americana Music Triangle, the city's neighbor, Muscle Shoals, is home to several famed music studios, and Florence hosts several festivals focused on music during the summer months.

The Cherokee called the river running through the area (the Tennessee) "Unashay," or "singing river," and believed a muse lived in the river who sang to them. It is now believed that the "singing" was the sound of water rushing around the rocks and sluices common in the Shoals, a sound that disappeared once the river was dammed by Tennessee Valley Authority. But the muse still reached a plethora of musicians, many of whom recorded hit songs in Muscle Shoals' iconic FAME Studios, including Aretha Franklin, Otis Redding and Wilson Pickett.

Take a tour of the studio, or book a music-themed "Swampette" tour of the area with Judy Hood, wife of bass player David Hood of the Swampers, the studio's house band. Composed of white session players, the Swampers would back the studio's primarily black artists during FAME's heyday in the Civils Rights era. Be sure to also head to the legendary 3614 Jackson Highway building that housed Muscle Shoals Sound Studio, which was founded by the Swampers in 1969 and has hosted recording sessions for artists such as the Rolling Stones and Paul Simon.

The blues and more

Visit Florence in July to catch the 10-day W.C. Handy Music Festival, which celebrates the area's rich musical heritage with performances by national blues acts in addition to more than 100 events held in libraries, churches, museums and restaurants July 22-31. Or, visit Aug. 26-28 to check out designer Billy Reid's Shindig No. 8, his eighth annual gathering centered on music, fashion and art. Last year's surprise headliner was the Alabama Shakes.

Where to stay

Marriott Shoals Hotel features a great spa, outdoor pool with a slide and waterfall as well as a heated indoor pool to help you while away your cares. Dining options include a rotating restaurant and a lobby bar, Swampers, that features live music every night. There's also a game room with old-school arcade games.

The hotel is close to downtown Florence as well as two courses on the Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail - the Fighting Joe and the Schoolmaster - and all the rooms have balconies with seating and views of Wilson Dam and the Tennessee River.

Where to eat

Step back in time at Trowbridge's, an old-fashioned soda fountain shop that's a great place to stop by for lunch or for something cool on a hot summer day. Try a chili dog or the chicken salad, then treat yourself to a banana split or a single scoop of the famous orange-pineapple ice cream.

Located in downtown Florence, City Hardware has a nice ambiance and plays host to several events during the W.C. Handy Festival. The restaurant is known for its roasted Brussels sprouts, crabcakes and steaks, as well as a wide selection of beer that includes many unusual options.

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