Conductor Robert DuncanGet on Track
• The 50-mile Hiwassee Loop trip runs approximately 3 1/2 hours on select dates between April and November. Trains run rain or shine.• Riders park at the restored train depot on U.S. Highway 41 in Etowah, which is about a 1 1/2-hour drive from Chattanooga, and catch a shuttle to the nearby boarding location.• Snacks are included in the observation dome car, but those who purchase the less-expensive coach tickets are welcome to bring their own snacks or coolers with drinks.• Autumn is the railroad’s peak season, which is reflected in slightly higher ticket prices.• Check trip dates and times and purchase tickets at tvrail.com or by calling 423-894-8028.
History Lesson
The line traveled by the Hiwassee Loop was originally called the Marietta and North Georgia Railroad, which began passenger service between Knoxville and Marietta on Aug. 18, 1890. Construction on the line started from the endpoints at Knoxville and Blue Ridge, Ga., and met at Bald Mountain near Farner, Tenn., where switchbacks with grades of more than 3 1/2 percent were used to connect the two lines. This quickly became a problem, and the solution engineers came up with was to build a double loop around Bald Mountain with a 1 percent grade. Completed in 1898, the loop is one of only five known spiral track configurations in the country. Regularly scheduled passenger service continued until 1951.
While the many backpacking excursions of my youth hold a special place in my heart, I am now wholeheartedly convinced that the best way to experience wide expanses of wilderness is by train. I came to this conclusion following my recent experience on the Hiwassee River Rail Adventure with the Tennessee Valley Railroad.
I climbed aboard the restored 1950's train at Gee Creek State Park in Etowah to embark on the 50-mile, half-day Hiwassee Loop trip, which carries you through the Cherokee National Forest along the Hiwassee River Gorge to Bald Mountain, where it encircles the mountain at the famous Hiwassee Loop before returning to Etowah along the same route.
Many of the attendants have worked on the rails in some fashion for ages, and they don't mind telling you what they know about what - by the time my generation came along - was basically a relic of the past. Beyond movies set in Europe, I'd only really seen trains passing over Broad Street, sitting stationary at the Choo-Choo, and the miniature version that circles the grounds of Lake Winnie. But trains clearly still have a draw for some. A charming couple sitting a few rows ahead ahead of me was sporting hats, T-shirts and accessories such as suspenders, all emblazoned with different trains, railroad companies and a variety of other train-themed memorabilia. This clearly wasn't their first time on the tracks.
As for me, I'm pretty sure it won't be my last.
I'm a fan of history in general, and I adored the Tennessee Valley Railroad's restored cars from the '40s and '50s. I would have been happy spending the entire ride exploring the cars, each from a different era and offering new details to find and marvel over - like the special locked compartments to put your shoes in while you sleep, or a small built-in receptacle in the bathroom designated for used razor blades.
The ride is a great way to show off some of the area's most spectacular scenery to out-of-town guests who may not have the knees, or the desire, to hike the trails. The rails make a fine substitute, and offer the opportunity to learn fascinating facts about the history of the area and the railroad. Keep an eye out for the "ghost towns" abandoned along the railroad line by inhabitants working in the lumber industry or to maintain the tracks.
I highly recommend springing for a seat in the observation dome car, not only for the superior views, but also for the unlimited drinks and snacks delivered to your seat by a server. My husband and I chose a booth in the upper level of the observation car, which, along with the rest of the cars, was fully enclosed and climate-controlled. Halfway through, we were asked to switch sides of the car (so everyone gets to see the views from both sides) and flip our seats so they faced the opposite direction. I suggest snagging a spot by a window on the left side as you depart, which has the best views on the first half of the ride. The first half is also when the conductor points out most of the interesting landmarks, which will likely pass unnoticed on the return trip.
The return trip seemed to take a little longer (the train's speed varies from 10-30 mph), but conductor and trip narrator Robert Duncan kept everyone entertained by roaming from car to car, playing songs on his banjo. The ride is a great time for long, involved Before Sunrise-style conversations, or simply getting lost in your own thoughts.
Before I stepped off the platform in Etowah, I was already Googling future train travel opportunities, dreaming of taking the original Orient Express route from Paris to Istanbul or riding the rails across Canada. But actually, the train ride made me feel more of a sense of pride in the area I live than I'd felt in a while. I can't imagine a person regretting the trip, aside from wishing they'd gone later in the year, when the leaves are changing and falling, or in the spring, with the dogwoods in bloom.