Abuelo's raises level of south-of-the-border fare

If you go* Where: Abuelo's, 2102 Hamilton Place Blvd.* Phone: 855-7400.* Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday.* Entree price range: $5.99-$19.79* Alcohol: Full bar.

Abuelo's is one of those restaurant chains that does it right. From delicate flavors to bold tastes, every dish is an adventure. Its menu is testament to that.

THE MENU

What were they thinking when they put so many temptations in one menu? For us, though, decision-making is a simple task. We have a particular favorite because Abuelo's does something magnificent to seafood.

Take the Shrimp Mojo de Ajo, for instance: angel hair pasta topped with shrimp that have been sautéed in garlic butter with south-of-the-border spices. What could be more simple and delicious than that? And it was good, but Dad, after one bite of my shrimp enchiladas, couldn't keep his eyes off them. They were excellent, bite after bite. Rather than wrapping big beautiful shrimp in heavy burrito-style wraps, they were enclosed in delicate crepes and topped with the most incredible cheesy cream sauce you can imagine.

Abuelo's chefs know who to blend spices to bring a meal to a crescendo. They've outdone themselves this time. In fact, we were told they've become so popular, people are ordering them for lunch, even though they are a dinner entree. That says something.

If seafood is not your choice, Abuelo's offers an excellent selection of beef and chicken dishes, as well as pork entrees.

THE SERVICE

Our server was knowledgeable about the menu and quick to bring chips, salsa and drinks to whet our appetites while waiting to feast. Prompt service continued throughout the meal. No room for improvement.

THE SPACE

It's amazing how designers can bring the ambiance of a Mexican cafe into the parking lot at Hamilton Place, but they've done so with aplomb. The earth tones, archways, art and plants bring to mind an open-air restaurant in the heart of Mexico. The look is relaxing and vibrant at the same time.

THE VERDICT

My second visit to Abuelo's was just as memorable as my first. For a chain restaurant, this eatery does a magnificent job of changing its menu to reflect the season, as well as adding contemporary twists to traditional Mexican fare. Through the end of summer, the restaurant is offering a really special deal: two can eat for $12.99 off a special menu.

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