Pack your own tasty bucket at Chicken-w-Bones

photo Chicken-w-Bones focuses on just a few tasty elements: fried Chicken, baked chicken, potato wedges, fried rolls and baked rolls.

KFC, Bojangles', Popeyes and Church's have made a career of serving a lot of chicken to people in a hurry.

For a local entry to make a dent in the field, as the stripper in the musical "Gypsy" famously said, "You've got to have a gimmick, if you want to get a hand."

The folks at Chicken-w-Bones on Brainerd Road think they may have such a gimmick. They invite the customer to "Pack It to the Max" -- to personally pack their bucket with as much chicken, potato wedges and rolls as they can wedge in.

Even then, it would be just another gamble if the chicken wasn't good. But it's good. It's napkin-after-napkin-after-napkin good.

THE MENU

IF YOU GOWhere: Chicken-w-Bones, 5520 Brainerd Road.Phone: 305-0742.Website: www.chicken-w-bones.com.Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday.Price range: $8.99 (small bucket)-$24.99 (largest of three buckets).

There's not much to it, but there's not supposed to be. There are three bucket sizes, $8.99, $15.99 and $24.99. The customer, after donning cellophane gloves, chooses -- with the help of supplied tongs -- from fried chicken, baked chicken, potato wedges, fried rolls or baked rolls.

The packer can select only chicken -- I believe I spotted wings and drumsticks in addition to breasts -- or mix it up to his or her heart's content. I supposed they can pack it with all rolls if they are so inclined.

The only other option visible or offered was a half gallon of fruit tea. The attendant assured my brother the tea was "goooo-oood," but we opted to pass on it.

THE ORDER (FOR TWO)

We ordered the $8.99 bucket, and I put two large pieces of fried chicken, two pieces of baked chicken, 10 potato logs and three rolls (two fried and one baked) in it.

Both the baked and fried chicken were moist with spicy but not overpowering skins and crust, respectively. They reminded me of the chicken that a lady who stayed with us when our parents went out of town when we were children used to make. I'm not sure what she coated the chicken in, but I'd never had anything like it before or since. Until Chicken-w-Bones.

As much as I like to cook, I have done almost no frying, so I admire anyone who can make fried food taste, well, better than fried.

The potato wedges were coated and fried, I guess, but did not have the flavor of the chicken. Nevertheless, they were cooked to an excellent consistency.

I did not taste the baked rolls -- I've never been much of a bread eater at meals -- but the fried rolls were interesting. I have no idea how they might have been prepared, but the top of the roll had a slightly crunchy texture with just a hint of sweetness. I had a couple of bites of one before my chicken called me back.

The $8.99 bucket was plenty of food for two people, and we didn't eat all the potato logs or rolls.

THE SERVICE

The attendant greeted us when we entered and apologized that she had to get some additional chicken. But she was quick to return, take our order and offer instructions on an arrangement diners are certainly not used to -- putting on gloves to select their food.

THE SPACE

Chicken-w-Bones occupies the longtime location of Russell Stover Candies in front of Holiday Bowl and adjacent to Eastgate Town Center. I had hoped it would have a few tables, but the spartan storefront, painted inside in orange and yellow, has only a cashier's stand, the buffet cart and a small refrigerator. So, instead of eating in one of our cars, my brother and I went to his house to consume our lunch.

THE VERDICT

This is not a lunch stop for one unless the one is very, very hungry. However, for family meals, for a potluck supper or for feeding in bulk (they do catering), this is a good option. The chicken is delicious, and the price compares favorably with chain chicken locations. And you can choose your pieces rather than get that wing-connected-to-the-thigh-connected-to-the-beak piece. I wish they had an individual portion box, a few other side options and some single-serving drink options (sodas? water?), but those may not fit into their current marketing plan. We'll definitely be back for the chicken, though.

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