Kitchen at Union Square inspires sustainability

The last time I visited Kitchen at Union Square, I sampled crispy oysters and local craft coffee roasts. That is, the last time I visited Kitchen professionally. The last time I visited Kitchen on my own time was last Sunday, when I indulged in creamy eggs Benedict, an extra order of home fries and four mimosas.

Oh, I do love Kitchen's brunch.

"Easter Sunday we're going to be giving out lilies during brunch," general manager and executive chef Wendell Barnes told me. "We'll be doing our normal brunch menu but with a couple features." One of those features is a new addition to Kitchen's menu: fresh trout topped with a honey-based sauce and served with mixed vegetables and lavender rice. The trout is locally and sustainably sourced from Steve Pickett's trout ranch in Dunlap, Tenn. The veggies come from Chattanooga's Crabtree Farms. The honey is from Rocky Hill Honey Farm in Georgia. The restaurant is even working with Sequatchie Cove Farm in order to procure healthy free-ranging meats and cheeses. "Foodies are becoming more progressive," said Wendell. "People want to know where their food is coming from and how it was treated."

Kitchen's farm-to-table in-house initiative is even farther reaching in that it supports Culinard, the Culinary Institute of Virginia College School of Business and Health. This means the restaurant regularly allows students to work as externs in the kitchen. So not only are students gaining real world experience, they are also learning to value sustainability and relationships with local farmers.

And while we are talking local, let's talk about Chattanooga's incredible cityscape as seen from 12 stories high. It is breathtaking - the encircling tops of downtown high rises, the church steeples, the distant ridgeline. "People can reserve our rooftop for events. It fits up to 100 people and we cater," Wendell said. Kitchen's catering menu includes lunch buffets like barbecue brisket, fried or lemon chicken with garden salads and your choice of sides and dessert. Its special events package includes a long list of hearty appetizers like crab dip and grilled chicken queso dip as well as carving station options like hickory smoked pit ham and roasted round of beef.

In addition to its rooftop, Kitchen offers a private dining area available for reservation that is also great for large parties. Or, if you want Kitchen to make the party for you, there is the weekly Chef's Table dinner. The new reservation-only event features a multi-course dinner with a wine and local beer tasting.

"Out of our six beers on draft, four are local. We have even more local bottled beers - from Nashville to Asheville," said Eve Markowicz, assistant manager and humble wine connoisseur. "I'm really proud of our wine menu," she told me. "It has varietals you don't normally find by the glass. It's a great way to be exposed to great wine without having to pay a lot."

Examples of wine by the glass include reds like Bordeaux and Super Tuscan and white wines like Picpoul de Pinet and Marsanne. Happy hour occurs daily between 3 and 6 p.m. and all day on Saturday and features deals on Kitchen's premium-well drinks. There is also a number of specialty cocktails, including ones that Eve calls "drinkable desserts." Drinkable desserts, huh? Or, as I like to call them, Champagne with a shot of vitamin C. No, wait, I call that breakfast. See you all next Sunday.

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