Acropolis loves lamb

Irene Alyssa Newton, a server at Acropolis. (Photo by Mark Gilliland)

When people think of Greece, they often think of two things: big families and lamb dishes. And at Acropolis Mediterranean Grill, these are accurate associations. Family-owned for over 20 years, Acropolis specializes in family tradition and, of course, lamb.

"My kids grew up teething on lamb bones," joked Nick Kyriakidis, co-owner of the restaurant.

The reason lamb is so popular in Greece, said Nick, is twofold. First, the landscape of the country is rocky and better suited to sheep than to cows. Second, he said, lamb has important religious affiliations. In Christianity, it is a symbol of peace and purity - which is why lamb is traditionally served for Easter dinner.

Easter season or not, Acropolis offers a list of lamb dishes every day. For causal dining, the restaurant offers lamb burger or gyro, either of which is served with customer's choice of side. Or, for a more upscale experience, try the lamb lollipops, braised lamb shank, lamb chops or new lamb meatballs served over pasta.

Though Nick refused to choose a favorite, he said the lamb shank, served over Parmesan risotto with grilled asparagus, is a best-seller. I, however, have no qualms with choosing a favorite.

My most beloved meal at Acropolis is actually not lamb-related. In fact, it is the vegetarian "farmer's pie," made with roasted squash, mushrooms, red onions, spinach, feta and Parmesan, rolled and baked in crispy phyllo - a paper-thin pastry dough common to Mediterranean cooking - and served with pesto and balsamic reduction. While the farmer's pie, like lamb, is always on the menu, Nick compared the dish to a tomato.

"Can you eat a tomato in the winter? Of course! But they are best this time of year," he said.

Other popular dishes include Acropolis' pan-seared, pecan-encrusted trout or - another one of my favorites - its eggplant stack, made with crispy eggplant, fresh mozzarella, garlic confit, spinach, mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, herb pesto and tomato sauce - which, not surprisingly, is a Kyriakidis family recipe.

Indeed, much like big families, scratch-made meals never go out of season.