Fusion fare reigns at Forbidden City

Sushi platter: State Island roll (inside) and Peace Out roll (outside)
Sushi platter: State Island roll (inside) and Peace Out roll (outside)

Forbidden City

Address: 2273 Gunbarrel Road Hours: Sunday-Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. and Friday from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Phone: 423-305-1087

The scent of hot and tangy Chinese food reached me before I had even reached Forbidden City's front double doors. It was a familiar aroma, like sweet and sour chicken. Instantly, I was transported back to my childhood.

Growing up, sweet and sour chicken was my favorite Chinese cuisine. The recipe features bits of white meat, deep-fried and served with a side of sweet and sour sauce. I loved those crisp, bite-sized hunks of meat and that sticky, red and more-sweet-than-sour dipping sauce.

But recently, I learned that sweet and sour chicken is not authentically Asian. In fact, the meal is a Westernized take on a traditional Chinese style of cooking. That is just the sort of culinary compromise that is deliciously representative of the fare offered at Forbidden City, an all-you-can-eat Asian-American buffet.

Its colorful bars are well stocked with an array of authentic Asian eats, classic American comfort foods and various fusions of the two. For example, there are different flavors of steamed buns, which are popular in northern China where they're known as "mantou." One bar showcases piping-hot dumplings, soups and rice noodles; another displays egg rolls, garlic and beef, and General Tso's chicken - which, like sweet and sour chicken, are all recipes that are not traditionally served in China - but nonetheless delicious.

Additionally, there are racks of barbecue spare ribs, boneless ribs, and macaroni and cheese. There is a long counter topped with sushi rolls on ice, a make-your-own hibachi grill and hand-scooped ice cream. Of course, much to the delight of my inner child, Forbidden City also serves sweet and sour chicken - piling those golden-colored fried bites of chicken high alongside fried chicken wings, french fries, fried donuts, meatballs and more.

At Forbidden City, you don't have to restrict yourself to just one region's foods - or to just one plate. Why not sample a variety of the world's bountiful flavors?

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