Anne BralyIf I had a dollar for every squash casserole I've made, I'd be sitting pretty. There's really no better side dish for summer, and there are so many different ways to make it.
Call them crookneck, straightneck or simply yellow. Whatever the name, the South's favorite little squashes thrive in the hot summer sun, so this year's crop should be a bumper one and perfect if you want to experiment with all the squash casseroles you'll find online or in your library of cookbooks.
So many of the recipes are old ones calling for creamed canned soups or heavy cream and oodles of cheese. All those additions do is weigh down the casserole and cover the squash's fresh flavor, not to mention adding lots of extra calories. A good squash casserole needs nothing more than just a few ingredients. Onions are a must; a touch of sugar and a little salt marry to expand the flavor; butter adds richness; and a crunchy topping is the de rigueur finish.
In search of the perfect squash casserole, I've been experimenting a lot this summer thanks to an overabundance of squash from a neighbor's garden.
I always have homemade croutons on hand; garlicky and buttery, when coarsely chopped there's no better topping. If you have none on hand, panko breadcrumbs or crushed crackers tossed in melted garlic butter are a delicious substitute. And if you have extra, stir them into the squash mixture. They'll only add more volume to the casserole as well as flavor and texture.
For novice cooks, the easiest way to cook squash is in the microwave in a glass dish covered with plastic wrap. Do not add water; squash has enough water in it that you will have to drain it when you remove it from the microwave.
It takes about 12 minutes to cook the three pounds of squash needed in this recipe. Do not overcook. You want the squash to have a soft crunch to it, so cook it only to the al dente stage.
The casserole is very forgiving, so if you cannot imagine squash casserole without cheese, go ahead and add a half cup or more. Monterey Jack is a good choice; it's not as strong as cheddar and will not mask the taste of the squash.
Squash casserole has come of age. It has lightened up, but is still the workhorse of Southern side dishes that will take you from Sunday suppers into Thanksgiving dinner.
If you love squash as do I, you'll enjoy this dish not only due to its simplicity, but the fact that the flavor of the squash comes through with little, if any, interference from other ingredients.
Simply Southern Squash Casserole
3 pounds yellow summer squash, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices (see note)
1/2 cup chopped onion
2 large eggs
1/4 cup butter, melted
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 cup crushed cracker or croutons tossed with 1/2 cup melted butter and 1 teaspoon garlic powder
Heat an oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 2-quart, shallow baking dish. Place the squash in a microwaveable bowl, cover with plastic wrap and microwave on high until squash is fork-tender but not mushy, 12-14 minutes. Drain squash, then place in a large mixing bowl and mash, but not completely. You still want there to be chunks.
Stir in 1/2 cup of crouton or cracker crumbs, onion, eggs, 1/4 cup of butter, sugar, salt and pepper until thoroughly combined; transfer mixture to the prepared baking dish. Top casserole with a generous layer of cracker crumbs or coarsely crushed croutons. Drizzle top with extra melted butter, if desired. Bake until the casserole is cooked through, the casserole is set and the top is golden brown, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Note: For color, use half yellow and half zucchini squash.
Contact Anne Braly at abraly@timesfreepress.com.