Side Orders: Have no fear when cooking with wine

Red wine
Red wine

Beth Whitson loves to cook and appreciates the depth of flavor that wines give when added to certain dishes, but she has always been hesitant to use them.

"I just never know which one is the right one to use," she admits. "Is it better to use white wine in chicken dishes and red wine in beef dishes? And what about pork? Do I use the same wines that you're supposed to drink with each kind of meat?"

photo Anne Braly

"It's important to choose a wine for cooking that you'd also like to drink," says Rhoda Boone, food director at Epicurious, an online site filled with recipes and accompanying videos that just recently added a line of wines to its culinary repertoire. It's wine for people who want a bottle that goes from pan sauce to tabletop.

The Epicurious team has partnered with Wines That Rock, the lifestyle wine company with retail brands including Downton Abbey Wines, Fifty Shades of Grey Wines and classic rock'n'roll-influenced wines named for the Grateful Dead, the Police and the Rolling Stones.

"We are thrilled to collaborate with Epicurious as it has allowed us to tap into the passion of both foodies and wine lovers," says Howard Jackowitz, founder of Wines That Rock.

Boone says one of the main problems cooks face is not knowing when the wine has been reduced enough in dishes.

"The alcohol in wine evaporates while cooking and leaves its flavor behind," she notes. "If it hasn't been cooked enough, the raw alcohol flavor can be overwhelming, but if it has been cooked too much, it can become bitter and sour."

So taste as you go.

When deciding on what red wines work best with dishes, like Whitson, you may ask yourself which one to use? There are many from which to choose.

"We like the Epicurious Cabernet Sauvignon, of course," Boone says. "But any dry red wine will do. Pinot noir, zinfandel and merlot are also good options."

And when cooking with white wine, Boone suggests using a dry, crisp, mostly un-oaked wine such as chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio or pinot gris.

Boone says wine is a great ingredient for marinades, braises and pan sauces, but have you ever thought about using it in a dessert? Consider making this decadent dark chocolate cake for Valentine's Day. The plummy-berry notes of red wine are highlighted when mixed with chocolate and butter into a glaze that drips over the edges making it terribly hard to resist.

Darkest Chocolate Cake With Red Wine Glaze

Cake

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces, plus more for pan

1/3 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for pan

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate (at least 70 percent cacao), chopped

1 cup sugar

4 large eggs

3/4 teaspoons kosher salt

Glaze and assembly

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate (at least 70 percent cacao), finely chopped

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 cup powdered sugar

1/2 cup Epicurious Cabernet Sauvignon or other favorite

To make the cake, heat oven to 325 degrees. Lightly butter and flour a 9-inch springform pan. Heat chocolate, sugar and 1 cup butter in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water; the bowl should not touch the water. Stir until chocolate is almost completely melted, about 3 minutes; remove from heat and continue to stir until chocolate is completely melted. Let cool completely.

Using an electric mixer on medium speed, add eggs to chocolate mixture one at a time, beating to blend after each addition. Beat until mixture has a mousse-like consistency. Reduce speed to low and add salt and 1/3 cup flour; mix until smooth. Scrape batter into prepared pan; smooth top.

Bake cake until top is firm and edges are slightly darkened, 55-65 minutes. Rely on visual cues; a tester inserted into cake's center will come out clean before cake is truly done. Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cake cool completely in pan before turning out.

For the glaze and assembly, heat chocolate, butter and salt in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water; again, the bowl should not touch the water. Stir until chocolate and butter are melted, about 5 minutes. Whisk in powdered sugar.

Meanwhile, bring wine just to a boil in a small saucepan. Remove chocolate mixture from heat and whisk in wine; let cool until slightly thickened and a rubber spatula leaves a trail in mixture when stirring, 8-10 minutes.

Set cake on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Pour glaze over cake and spread it across the top and over the edges with an offset spatula. Let cake stand at room temperature until glaze is set, 2-3 hours. Top with a dollop of whipped cream and a couple of raspberries for garnish, if desired.

Tip: The cake can be made and glazed two days ahead of time and kept in refrigerator. But bring it to room temperature before serving.

Contact Anne Braly at abraly@timesfreepress.com.

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