It isn't often that I venture north of the Mason-Dixon line, as the good Lord blessed us Southerners with pretty much everything we could want. However, a recent excursion led my wife and me to tiptoe across that infamous demarcation, and it was a rewarding mission.
We began in the small West Virginia town of Berkeley Springs. American Indians knew of the area for centuries and came from hundreds of miles to bathe in the healing warm springs.
In 1748, 16-year-old George Washington surveyed the area, which was then part of the Virginia colony. Washington fell in love with the beauty of the mountains, the nearby Potomac River and the warm springs that flow year-round at 74 degrees. He would return many times over his life, and he even purchased one of the original lots in the new town that developed. You can still see his bathtub carved out of rock that is in the park in Berkeley Springs.
Today the quaint town offers a smorgasbord of spas, antique and art shops, inns and restaurants. We stayed at the Country Inn near the original springs. It is old but comfortably and tastefully updated, and it offers a plethora of spa, bath and massage treatments as well as delightful accommodations and food. During the War Between the States, soldiers from both the North and the South sought accommodation in the original buildings as they fought in the surrounding towns.
Nearby in Hancock passes one of the most scenic and pleasant trails for walking, running or bike riding I've witnessed - the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. It tells a rich story from America's great heritage. Today, the National Park Service maintains the 184-mile trail between Washington, D.C., and Cumberland, W.Va. The trail parallels the old canal and includes visitor centers and many historical markers explaining the history. While most of the trail is gravel, it includes many miles that are paved, including those around Hancock. We rode our bikes at least 20 miles along the trail, which provided a glimpse back at a far slower-paced yet significant era in American history. The C&O canal trail also highlights the determination and ingenuity of our forefathers.
The canal was the brainchild of the visionary man who surveyed the area years earlier, George Washington. He founded the "Powtowmack" Company in 1785 with plans to build a canal that would connect the Eastern seaboard with the Ohio River and the Great Lakes region.
Washington's company never broke ground, but the idea moved forward. In 1825, the new federal government appropriated money to begin the ambitious project, which included 74 locks, 11 aqueducts and numerous dams and tunnels to negotiate a route for canal boats pulled by mules through the mountainous region. Despite setbacks, the canal operated from 1831 until 1924. The C&O canal never united the country as Washington intended because much of the canal beyond Cumberland was never finished. However, it opened the door to many commercial enterprises on the new American frontier and helped lead thousands of ambitious entrepreneurs into new territories.
We reluctantly said goodbye to the picturesque town and crossed the Mason-Dixon Line into southern Pennsylvania. Our destination was a beautiful B&B called the Mercersburg Inn. What a jewel!
The mansion was originally the 20,000-square-foot home of Harry and Ione Brian who made a fortune in the hide and tanning industry. Today it is owned by Jim and Lisa McCoy, a delightful and interesting couple who retired from the fast-paced finance and computer software world in New York City to manage this incredibly beautiful respite in rural Pennsylvania.
The inn is set amid a wealth of history and outdoor activities in a fascinating region. Nearby is the Amish country centered around Lancaster and Strasbourg. The battlefields of Antietam and Gettysburg are a short drive. Ski resorts, bicycle trails, shopping opportunities and hiking abound. Washington, D.C., is less than two hours away.
However the beauty of the area and the delightful facility make the inn a destination itself. There are a number of special events during the year: quilting weekend; cheesemaking classes; French cooking; international wine-tasting and foods (the weekend we attended) led by wine expert John Peters; the beer and food weekend; and holiday getaway specials including New Year's, Easter, and Thanksgiving.
The drive through the countryside around Mercersburg reveals a picturesque landscape of rolling hills, well-maintained dairy and equestrian farms, quaint villages and neat country homes. The theme continued as we arrived at the inn. Well-manicured gardens surrounding the main house captured our attention and skillfully planned pathways led through the kaleidoscope of shrubs and flowers to the entrance.
Inside, the grand staircase and beautifully carved oak trim in the entry serve notice that you are in no ordinary B&B. There are 17 guest rooms, all perfectly appointed with antique furniture and expertly maintained. The plush feather beds with high-thread-count linens offered a most pleasant night's sleep - especially after the wine, laughter and robust conversation with old and new friends at dinner! I could not imagine a more delightful getaway. The food, beverages and warmth of the facility were only matched by the gracious and delightful hosts, Amy and Jim.
So, yes, Yankees know the art of living well. We met many friendly and interesting people, saw some beautiful country, ate delicious meals and drank some fine wine. We are ready to make another mission "up North." They talk a little funny up there, but Southern warmth and hospitality certainly has infiltrated the Mason-Dixon line. They are folks any Southerner would be glad to call friends.
Email Roger Smith at life@timesfreepress.com.