How to make surprisingly excellent vegan corn chowder

Corn chowder made by Bethany Jean Clement with an assistant from Seattle chef Kristi Brown. / Ellen M. Banner/Seattle TImes/TNS

SEATTLE - Corn chowder does not sound like a thrill. A ubiquitous vegetable plus a soup intended to make use of any kind of ubiquitous stuff using also-ubiquitous milk and/or cream, plus other ubiquitous vegetables should be fine. Not amazing, however. And, then, vegan corn chowder - not to cast aspersions on anyone's dietary choices, but subtracting the dairy from the situation maybe less good.

Chef Kristi Brown of Seattle's stellar Communion makes AMAZING vegan corn chowder. Apologies for the all-caps, but this is corn chowder that makes one want to SHOUT ABOUT IT. To quote myself from January 2021 (for I already have rhapsodized about this corn chowder): "This superlative soup could fool the biggest butter-lover: luxurious in texture yet also earthy, sweet and slightly smoky, spicy but sneakily so.