Restaurant Review: Utensils are optional, fun's mandatory at Pier 88

Six new restaurants have opened along Gunbarrel Road since the first of the year. Pier 88 Boiling Seafood & Bar is among them, opening in July with little to no fanfare.

But evidently the PR wasn't needed. When I arrived last Friday at 5 p.m., the place was already packed; and judging by the noise level, everyone was having a good time.

THE SPACE

Pier 88 is located in The Overlook shopping center right next to Fresh Market. It's the space formerly occupied by Souper Salad. It's been overhauled to make use of every available inch of space inside.

In fact, upon entering, there really is no waiting area - there is a walkway about 4 feet wide divided from the main dining area with a large filigree grille. As packed as it was, I foresee this might be a problem in coming colder months. The hostess stand is tucked in a corner around to the right behind the door.

The restaurant has been decorated in a nautical theme with fishing nets swagged from the ceiling, ships' wheels and life preservers hung around the walls. Pine dividers separate the two dining areas and bar. Tables are covered in white paper with the server's name written across the end.

THE MENU

There are three things to know before you go. First, everything is either fried or boiled.

Second, there are no landlubber's choices. It's all seafood, fried or boiled.

Third, there are no greens on the menu; no salads, not even coleslaw.

But the choices in seafood are abundant: 12 varieties ranging from shrimp to blue crab to lobster tails.

All 12 are offered on the boil menu. Diners may purchase their seafood boil in half-pound or pound servings. For example, a pound of boiled snow crab legs is $22.50, a half-pound $12.50. A pound of King Crab legs is $32, a pound of clams $6.

Five types of fried baskets are offered, all $10. Eleven appetizers range from $3 for 10 hush puppies to $20 for a dozen raw oysters. There is a Low Country Boil, $23.50, and Two-Way Shrimp, which offers shrimp prepared in five styles, $14.

THE ORDER

I knew something was up when my server asked "Do you want utensils?" as he set my shrimp basket on the table. When I replied yes, he returned with a lightweight plastic fork and knife.

When the menu states seafood tastes better with your hands, take it seriously.

Here's how it works: You choose your seafood and order size for the boil. Then select from five seasonings and pick one of five spice levels (non-spicy to extra hot). While it's cooking, a bucket is brought to the table that includes bibs and gloves. You'll need both.

The boiled seafood is placed in a large plastic bag with all spices and any sides that might be included with that order. The bag is tied off and brought to the table with a metal plate. The diner opens the bag and dumps the contents onto the plate - and dinner is served.

Half the fun of the meal was watching reactions of diners around me when they saw the bags. Most burst out laughing at the size of the meal or the do-it-yourself serving style. The guy across the aisle from my booth pulled out his cellphone and Facetimed with his mama, both of them laughing at the size of his King Crab legs.

Some people carefully rolled down the sides of their bags and picked out each piece with two fingers, trying to not be messy. (Note: That's impossible.)

I can't remember the last time I saw so many people laughing and having fun with their dinner in a restaurant. Especially kids - they could use their hands to eat without reprimands from mom.

In hindsight, I realize I made a mistake ordering that fried shrimp basket. But I just don't like peel-and-eat shrimp because those little pereopods and pleopods (more commonly known as swimming and walking legs) curled up beneath the abdomen creep me out. (No judging. We all have quirks.)

I was served a mound of Cajun fries with eight fried shrimp on top. The fries were forgettable, not much flavor and a few seconds short of being overcooked and soggy. I tried two and left the rest.

The shrimp was delectable; fresh, juicy with just enough breading to be flavorful but not bulky. The $2.50 side of three small corn cobs, which together would have made one regular cob, was all right.

THE SERVICE

Michael (remember his name is written on the end of the table) was great. He was friendly, voluntarily explained how the seafood boil worked before I could ask, and answered all my questions knowledgeably and as though it was the first time anyone had asked them.

Service was prompt and efficient.

THE VERDICT

I'll admit paying $12.50 for eight fried shrimp and three small corn cobs wasn't a good deal. But I should have listened to Michael. A boil would have been much more fun. Next time I'll know to dress down and order a crab leg boil.

Yes, I'll try Pier 88 again. It's messy. It's noisy. It's fun.

Contact Susan Pierce at spierce@timesfreepress.com or 423-757-6284.