Kenny's Southside Sandwiches opened late last month in the space formerly occupied by Porker's BBQ, and while losing Porker's was a shame, as it was really good, so is Kenny's.
Let me begin by saying that in my humble opinion, the world's two most-perfect sandwiches are the peanut butter and jelly and the banh mi. The former is simple perfection, with very few variations. The other, as I've learned, can be made several ways; most are good, though some are better than others.
Why is this relevant? Because not everyone gets the banh mi right. Most that I've had around town are made by people who seem to think a French dip is the same thing as a banh mi if you put sliced carrots on it. Nope, nope and nope.
The bahn mi has become an obsession in our household for about the last five years. We've had them made with beef and pork, whether pulled, ground, roasted, smoked and cooked in a slow cooker or a pressure cooker. We've had them on big, fat, fluffy rolls and on hard, crusty baguettes. We've had them with the juice running down your chin and we've had them more on the dry side.
The meat is important, but the other ingredients, including the bread, are maybe more so. The sandwich is a fusion of Vietnamese and French foods. The daikon (winter radishes), mayo/Sriracha sauce, fresh jalapenos, cilantro, pate and carrots that are added make it just about perfect.
Kenny's banh mi isn't perfect, but it's pretty darn good. It features duck rillettes (duck legs), carrots, radishes and cilantro on a delicious hard-crusted baguette. I get that not everyone wants the heat of the jalapeno, or the pate, but they are so good.
I realize I'm being picky, but like I said, I love banh mi. This was still a good sandwich and good indication that the rest of the menu would be good as well.
If you go
› What: Kenny’s Southside Sandwiches, 1251 Market St.› Hours: 7:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Saturday› Price range: $1 toast to $12 Pork Belly Banh Mi› Alcohol: Beer› Phone: 423-498-5888› Online: www.kennyssandwiches.com, www.facebook.com/kennyssandwiches
For breakfast, I got a to-go order of hash potatoes and Duck Confit Biscuit, which included peach jelly.THE MENU
Kenny's offers breakfast and lunch from 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday. It's affiliated with St. John's Restaurant and offers the same type of eclectic, thoughtful dishes you'd expect from them. Things like the Pork Belly Banh Mi ($12) or the Shrimp Roll ($11).
Other items include Brisket Reuben ($12), Turkey & Dancing Fern ($10) and a Smoked Trout & Arugula Salad ($10). The lunch menu also includes three plates: the Fried Chicken & Two Sides for $12, Two Eggs & Chorizo Hash with avocado toast and pico for $12 and Falafel with baba ghanoush, quinoa salad and pickles for $10.
Sides include mac and cheese, Brandon's Braised Greens, potato salad and cucumber salad (all $4).
The breakfast menu is just as interesting with items like Pimento Cheese Toast ($5), Avocado Toast ($7), Fried Chicken Biscuit with apple butter and hot sauce ($6) and Duck Confit Biscuit with peach jam ($7). You can also get a classic sandwich with choice of egg, sausage, ham or bacon served on choice of bread.
Hash potato and egg bowls are offered as are several side options, including fruit salad, hash potatoes or grits (each $3). Banana bread with syrup ($3), pancakes ($5) and yogurt & granola ($4) are also served.
THE ORDER
I ordered the cucumber salad with my sandwich just because Ann Law, who also recommended the House Dog ($8), gave it high marks. The fresh, crunchy, diced cucumbers served in a peanut sauce were a nice summer side.
I could have done without the pickle, onion and edible flowers garnish that came with the sandwich, however. I like the idea, but they didn't quite work together for me. I asked for Sriracha and was disappointed they didn't have any. The server offered a housemade hot sauce, and it was OK, but not right. Picky?
And, because I am a professional (meaning not only am I getting paid to write this, I get reimbursed) dedicated to giving information you can use, I went back two days later for breakfast. I felt compelled to try the Duck Confit Biscuit.
Now, I don't claim the same level of expertise regarding biscuits as I do a banh mi, but I do like a good biscuit. My mother-in-law made the best, but you can get some good ones at several gas stations around town as well.
Kenny's serves up a square, relatively flat but light and crumbly biscuit covered in peach jelly with some delicious duck. In case you were wondering, confit means it was cooked in its own rendered fat.
I got a side of hash potatoes, as well. I don't think I could eat such a carb-loaded rich meal every day, but it was pretty dang good, and I didn't need or want to eat lunch. I got the breakfast to go and also on the plus side, I got a parking spot right in front and was in and out in about nine minutes.
The Pork Belly Banh Mi at Kenny's Southside Sandwiches in the old Porker's BBQ location on Market Street features duck rillettes, carrots, radishes and cilantro on a baguette. It comes with a side of pickles, onions and edible flowers.THE SPACE
The basic layout is similar to what it was as Porker's. The drop ceiling has been replaced with wallboard, the black-and-white vinyl tiles have been removed to expose the concrete floor and the walls have been papered over with a tasteful, simple, striped pattern. The tables and bartop are now a sleek, black, manmade service, giving the space a clean, updated look and feel.
You order at the register, and a server brings your food. A drink-and-coffee station is provided in the back room.
THE SERVICE
I sat at the bar for lunch and got takeout for breakfast. In both cases, the servers were very nice, offering tips on house favorites and making sure my drink was replenished.
THE VERDICT
The menu is on the pricey side, but the dishes are fresh, filling and a cut above the norm in both creativity and ingredients.
Contact Barry Courter at bcourter@timesfreepress.com or 423-757-6354.