Ed Wickley saw how successfully his sister sold hot chicken at Bolton's, her restaurant in Nashville. So he implemented a similar concept with a Chattanooga twist and called it The Flaming Rooster.
Unlike most places that cook hot chicken with a sauce, Wickley creates his heat with a dry rub, allowing the chicken to be hot without being wet. So customers get chicken that's hot and crispy.
A wing plate with fries and slaw was $9.50. With drink and tax the order totaled $12.07 at The Flaming Rooster on Brainerd Road.If you go
› Where: The Flaming Rooster, 3202 Brainerd Road› Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, closed Sunday› Prices: $5.25-$25.50› Alcohol: Yes› Phone: 423-805-5357
"You don't have to drive to Nashville to get the best Nashville hot chicken. It's right here," says customer Alex Bohner.
THE SPACE
Red brick walls, black tables, music and low lighting give the Flaming Rooster a cozy, cool feel. But I sat near one of three televisions in the room, and hearing the TV and radio at the same time made the atmosphere seem busy.
The room included my high-top table for two and eight or nine low tables that seat four people. There's also seating at the bar. It seems like a small to medium space when you walk in the door. But around the corner, you'll see another spacious half that accommodates more people.
THE MENU
Chicken is only one option. The Flaming Rooster serves fish - including whiting, catfish, grouper and tilapia - and it serves shrimp and pork chops. Chicken dishes include wings, breast quarters, leg quarters, chicken on a stick, chicken and waffle and chicken tenders.
Customers may order spice on any dish. The spice meter ranges from a sprinkle to light all the way up to "Oh Hale Naw," the hottest offered.
Prices for chicken range from $5.25 for a chicken sandwich to $12 for chicken and waffle, which includes four wings or two tenders. Seafood ranges from $5.50 for a whiting sandwich with two fillets to $12.25 for a plate with eight shrimp. Pork chops are $6.25 for a sandwich and $9.25 for a plate.
Each plate comes with two sides. Customers may choose from mac and cheese, slaw, green beans, baked beans, fries, potato salad, collards or turnip greens. All sides are $2. Or customers may order a sandwich served with white bread and pickles. There are five beverages choices, one dessert (cake) and beer choices.
THE ORDER
I ordered the wing plate ($9.50) with fries and coleslaw. I got five plain wings. I asked that my sixth wing be the Oh Hale Naw spiced chicken. I ordered tea mixed with lemonade to drink, for a total of $12.07.
I figured Oh Hale Naw chicken must be hot because the waitress's eyes widened when I ordered it. Then she instructed me to enjoy my plain chicken first. Because I may not want to eat after Oh Hale Naw.
She warned me about her experience. "It felt like my ears were on fire," she said.
I let the chicken sit while I ate my sides.
I ate the crinkle fries first and instantly knew they were the best food on my plate. They were just right, not mushy, but light and crispy on the outside, soft on the inside. And the seasoning was just right. A step beyond plain salt, it had pizzazz, but when I asked what he used, Wickley smiled and said nothing. Best of all, the waitress served the fries hot, not room temperature.
The slaw was creamy, crunchy, not bad. I think I tasted a little onion. I liked it.
On to the main dish: The plain chicken was crunchy and not dry. I had to keep touching my napkin to absorb the juice. It was good.
But I couldn't eat the Oh Hale Naw piece. I only touched the spice to my lips with my fingers and my lips felt swollen like a bee stung me, like they were pulsating. I don't understand sticking anything in my mouth that causes my lips to throb.
Wickley said the cayenne pepper used to make the spice is actually good for you. I still couldn't put it in my mouth.
Bohner eats the same dish at least once a week at The Flaming Rooster. He sat across from me; face turning beet red, but still eating. I asked if he was turning red because of the hot chicken. He responded, "Yeah, and I'm sweating, too." Instead of munching on bread to cool his tongue, he ate the wings with nothing but water.
"He's a naturalist," said waitress Ray Orr.
Lakwesha Ewing visits weekly, sometimes more.
"No, ma'am," she said, when asked if she had the Oh Hale Naw chicken.
"As a Memphis girl, I consider myself to be a fried fish connoisseur, and while my Pop's fried fish will always be my No. 1, Flaming Rooster's fried fish is running a very close No. 2," she said.
Bohner said he just loves hot food and calls himself a hot-wing connoisseur. He travels the region in search of it. He's been to Atlanta, Memphis and Nashville, where hot chicken started. But he said The Flaming Rooster is best.
"You're not going to find them any better," said Bohner.
THE SERVICE
Orr, who served as waitress and hostess, took orders and worked the cash register while keeping a cool head during the busy lunch hour.
A minute after I sat down, she stood at my table asking if it was my first visit and if I needed any help deciding. She pointed out combo dishes, like chicken and fish, that allowed me to sample more than one dish. Then warned me about Oh Hale Naw.
The food was fast and hot. The waitress was friendly.
THE VERDICT
Of course I'm going back. I'm just not ordering Oh Hale Naw chicken. I'm OK with the sprinkle. That's as hot as I'm going. I like the coleslaw and love the crinkle fries.
Contact Yolanda Putman at yputman@timesfreepress.com or 423-757-6431.