In the spirit of full honesty, I must begin with a confession: This review is probably a little biased. Flying Squirrel, the Southside's popular bar and eatery, has been a go-to of mine since it opened in 2013. It's a spot equally perfect for drinks with friends, a cozy date night or for impressing your uber-worldly Brooklyn-based cousin with discerning tastes.
So when I was given the option to review its new brunch menu, which, oddly, I had not yet tried, I claimed it so fast the other potential writers didn't even stand a chance.
THE SPACE
Nestled on Johnson Street between Station Street and the Play Wash Pint dog park, Flying Squirrel is in the heart of the Southside and has seen much surrounding growth over the past several years. Patrons have the option to sit outside on its covered patio or inside at one of the many large booths or famous long bar, half of which can be opened to the outside when the weather permits.
The space is airy and comfortable, intentionally designed and accessible with a low-key sophistication. Weekend visitors can also enjoy live music played from the interior's balcony, adding to the already solid ambiance without drowning out conversation at the table.
THE MENU
Similar to its regular menu, Flying Squirrel's brunch includes an array of eclectic Southern fare with creative and worldly twists. Items range from a Blackberry Fig Shortcake, featuring rosé-macerated blackberries and fig with chantilly cream on a house biscuit, to Shrimp and Grits with Riverview Farms grits, trinity mirepoix and spicy chipotle cream.
Of course, we wouldn't be talking Flying Squirrel if we didn't mention specialty cocktails. In addition to its extensive craft beer, wine and mixed drink options, brunch libations include the spicy yet refreshing Sriracha Bloody Mary, made with a housemade mix, cucumber vodka and celery salt; and a mimosa with sparkling Albarino, a wine known for its distinctive botanical aroma, which pairs seamlessly with fresh orange juice for an elevated version of the cliche brunch drink.
THE FOOD
My friend and I decided to start by splitting the Heirloom Tomato Salad, a gorgeously plated combination of plump, juicy tomatoes topped with Southland Farms onions and fennel, spring pea gremolata (in plainspeak: a zesty herb condiment), torn Neidlov's country loaf, zephyr squash puree, toasted peanuts, buttermilk cheese and collard green powder. Don't let the ingredients intimidate you, this salad is a dynamite medley of seasonal, flavorful herbs and vegetables with an added crunch and mild spiciness, a salad so good you will rock your inevitable onion breath with pride knowing it was for a good cause.
Flying Squirrel's heirloom tomato salad begins with tomatoes topped by onions and fennel, spring pea gremolata, torn Neidlov's bread, zephyr squash puree, toasted peanuts and buttermilk cheese. / Photo by Kate BrennanFor our entrees, my friend went with Ben's Breakfast, named for Chef Ben Park, a beautiful plate of roasted farm vegetables, coconut sorghum grits, Thai curry, peanuts and an over-easy egg. I chose the Steak & Eggs, which boasted large chunks of buttery seared Wagyu hanger steak, two fried farm eggs, grilled asparagus, brined fingerling potatoes and a fresh spring pico.
Both dishes were standouts with perfectly cooked meats and eggs, al dente vegetables and an incredible balance of flavors that was complex yet also allowed for individual ingredients to shine in their own way. We finished our meals full and satisfied, yet not in need of an afternoon nap to recover.
THE SERVICE
In all my years as a Flying Squirrel devotee, I have never had bad service. The staff is friendly and extremely knowledgeable of their extensive menu of food and drinks, more than willing to explain an unfamiliar ingredient or help the pickiest of beer drinkers find just the right brew.
While during the week and in the evenings it is a 21-and-over establishment, those under 21 are now allowed during brunch hours. I witnessed several families with young children come in, who were accommodated without a hitch. The friendly, laid-back energy of the space extends to its staff's hospitality, making this elevated neighborhood bar and eatery truly one of the best spots in town.
Contact Kate Brennan at kbrennan@timesfreepress.com.