Historic Greystone Inn reopens on Lake Toxaway

A Greystone Inn morning
A Greystone Inn morning

A trip to Lake Toxaway, North Carolina's Greystone Inn is like a trip back in time, to the era when Rockefellers and Vanderbilts used the Toxaway Inn as their lakeside retreat.

photo George Armstrong and his wife Lucy
Among those early 20th century guests was prominent Savannah businessman George Armstrong and his wife Lucy, who was so taken with the lake that she asked her husband to build a vacation home on its shores. He told her to stake out a spot and camp there all summer as a trial, which was presumed to be a joke, though that's not how Lucy took it. She had a tent with a wooden platform built for herself, and a smaller tent set up nearby for the 11 servants who came with her. She lived there the whole summer of 1913, and the site she chose is where her estate, now the Greystone Inn, was built in 1915. She wanted it designed in the style of the Swiss chalets she'd seen on trips to Europe, and when her husband died in 1924, she made their lake house her permanent home.

Of all the places she'd seen on her travels throughout the world, Lake Toxaway was the place she loved most.

The Greystone has been closed for the past few years, but was recently purchased by hoteliers Shannon and Geoffrey Ellis, who also own The Willcox, another historic property in Aiken, South Carolina. The Greystone was remodeled and reopened this spring, once again offering a luxurious option for a weekend retreat in the mountains - like an adult version of the Brevard area's many popular summer camps.

About an hour and a half from Asheville and an hour from Highlands, the Greystone is in an area known as the "land of the waterfalls." Nearby options include Whitewater Falls, the highest falls east of the Rockies, with a 400-foot drop; and Sliding Rock, where the falls form a natural slide.

photo Lake Toxaway

Another perk of a stay at the Greystone is the access it offers to lovely Lake Toxaway (Toxaway is a Cherokee word meaning "red bird"), North Carolina's largest private lake, which guests can explore by canoe, paddleboard or kayak, available through the hotel. Or guests can grab a drink from the lobby bar and take the complimentary sunset cruise offered daily (weather permitting) on "Miss Lucy," the inn's 26-passenger mahogany electric boat, handmade by the century-old Hacker-Craft Company.

photo The Fisher Suite
The inn's luxurious accommodations, 30 in all, are located in the original mansion as well as the separate Hillmont and Lakeside suites. Many include working fireplaces, private terraces and deep soaking tubs.

Pets are welcome in rooms, where they're provided with a plush dog bed and can savor gourmet treats from their own in-room dining menu. Guests with pets are given a list of dog-friendly parks nearby, and the hotel's dog concierge can coordinate walks while you're out.

For human guests, the hotel provides plush robes; even little robes for little ones, who also get a stuffed squirrel they can take home. Planning a trip for the holidays? The Greystone gives you the option to add festive amenities like a live Christmas tree for your room; or an elf tuck-in for the kiddos, complete with milk, cookies and a bedtime story.

There are plenty of nearby options for active adventures, like mountain climbing, on- and off-road cycling, horseback riding, tubing, waterskiing and whitewater rafting, as well as for recreational pursuits such as tennis, golf, croquet and falconry. Guests have access to Lake Toxaway Country Club's 18-hole championship golf course and the Tom Fazio-designed Golf Learning Center, a 22-acre facility offering private lessons and clinics, plus the club's tennis courts and swimming pool. Winter travelers can learn to ski or snowboard, or speed through the snow on an inner-tube at Sapphire Valley Ski Resort. The Greystone is also an ideal place to unwind, whether by settling in with a good book on an Adirondack chair above the sparkling lake, or by taking time out at the spa with a massage, facial and herbal body wrap.

Unique activities offered at the inn include the "Beekeeper for a Day" experience (offered May-October), in which you'll don a full bee suit for a meet-and-greet with bees, inspect the hives with a beekeeper and visit the honey processing center to fill your own souvenir bottle. You'll also be treated to an indoor honey tasting, where you'll learn which flavors are associated with different honeys and how to pair them with a variety of foods.

Guests can also take a day trip to the Sierra Nevada brewery in Mills River, about an hour's drive from the inn; or go stargazing at the Pisgah Astronomical Research Institute, a former satellite tracking station operated by NASA. At Southern Highlands Reserve, a 120-acre native plant arboretum and nature center, you'll learn about the natural ecosystems of the Blue Ridge Mountains; or visit DuPont State Forest - where "The Hunger Games" movies were filmed - and play a game of archery tag. Kids will also love gem mining in the Blue Ridge Mountains or a visit to the famous O.P. Taylor's toy store in Brevard.

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