Pawleys Island is the South Carolina coast's hidden gem

The Pelican Inn, an eight-room, beachfront bed-and-breakfast established in the 1850s. / Onlypawleys.com photo
The Pelican Inn, an eight-room, beachfront bed-and-breakfast established in the 1850s. / Onlypawleys.com photo
photo In the late 1800s/early 1900s, Pawleys local riverboat captain Joshua John Ward designed a rope hammock in order to get a cooler night's sleep. / Onlypawleys.com photo

One of the first summer resorts established on the East Coast, Pawleys Island feels stuck in time. At just 4 miles long and a quarter-mile wide, the barrier island is tiny and contains nothing but old summer homes, with some in the town's Historic District dating back to the 18th century when area rice planters brought their families to the breezy seashore to escape the mosquitoes and "summer fever," aka malaria, on the mainland from May to November.

One of the first summer resorts established on the East Coast, Pawleys Island feels stuck in time. At just 4 miles long and a quarter-mile wide, the barrier island is tiny and contains nothing but old summer homes, with some in the town's Historic District dating back to the 18th century when area rice planters brought their families to the breezy seashore to escape the mosquitoes and "summer fever," aka malaria, on the mainland from May to November.

Separated from the rest of South Carolina by a saltwater creek, Pawleys Island intentionally shuts itself off from the rest of the world - and the worlds-away feel is what keeps generations returning to the sleepy beach town. The town incorporated in the mid-1980s in order to pass an ordinance banning commercial establishments, save for a few inns that were grandfathered in, assuring that the island would maintain its low-key way of life (with the help of minimal public parking). Yet a trip to the grocery store and a selection of restaurants is just a quick drive across one of two causeways providing access to the island, located 25 miles south of the craziness of Myrtle Beach and about 70 miles north of Charleston.

WHERE TO STAY

photo Most of the houses on Pawleys are beachfront on one side and have docks extending into the creek on the other. / Phto by Christopher John

Many families have made spending the summer at Pawleys Island an annual tradition, often returning to the same home. Proudly referred to as "arrogantly shabby," the summer homes of Pawleys Island are often constructed of weathered cypress wood, with wraparound porches and gabled roofs. Since the island is small and options are limited, you'll want to book as early as possible - as in, start planning next summer's trip now. Also note that a home with a Pawleys Island address isn't necessarily on the island. The adjacent peninsula, known locally as the Waccamaw Neck, is served by the Pawleys Island Post Office.

Island Life

Local loreAsk a local to tell you about sightings of the Gray Man ghost, who is said to appear in front of people on the beach to warn them before hurricanes.Essential souvenirsContinue the laid-back vibe of the island back at home with a Pawleys Island rope hammock from the Original Hammock Shop, open since 1938. They’re handmade in the same way they were more than a century ago when they were designed by riverboat captain Joshua John Ward. Also, be sure to pick up a tub of Palmetto Cheese, the famous pimiento cheese made using the recipe of Sassy Henry, owner of the Sea View Inn. The inn began serving the recipe as an appetizer when the Henry family took over the inn in 2002, and Pawleys Island visitors have been spreading the word of its addictive quality ever since.NamesakePercival Pawley was the first European settler to develop plantations in the area after receiving federal land grants in 1711. Pawleys Island is named for his sons, George, Anthony and Percival Jr.

All rooms at the 1937 Sea View Inn (14 in the main house and six cabin rooms) have water views of either the Atlantic or the salt marsh separating the island from the mainland. You're typically required to stay a minimum of a week in the peak summer months and at least two nights September through May. Get ready to relax and unplug. None of the rooms have phones or TVs and only the cabin rooms have A/C.

Pelican Inn, an eight-room bed-and-breakfast, was built in 1854 as the summer home of Plowden Charles Jenrette Weston, owner of Hagley Plantation and lieutenant governor of South Carolina from 1862-1864. He reportedly continues to haunt the inn.

WHAT TO DO

While the pristine white sand beach is the main reason families return to Pawleys year after year, the surrounding area is also known for its award-winning golf courses - many of which are former rice plantations - along with great fishing and eco-tours.

Exploring Pawleys Island or the Litchfield salt marshes by kayak or stand-up paddleboard on an eco-tour with Surf the Earth is a great way to spend a couple of hours on a summer morning. Surf the Earth also offers two-hour surfing lessons, and kayak, SUP and surfboard rentals by the day or week with free delivery.

Black River Outdoors Center hosts two- to four-hour guided kayak tours of the tidelands, including the salty marshes of Huntington Beach State Park, the Waccamaw River Cypress-Tupelo Swamps Preserve and the Sandy Island Wildlife Preserve. Expect to see herons, osprey, egrets, alligators, turtles and more.

You can reel in sharks, sea trout, harpoon, flounder, redfish and more Instagram-worthy catches on a full- or half-day fishing charter with companies such as Winyah Guide Service, Inshore Xtreme Fishing Charters or Carolina Guide Service.

Pawleys is within 5 miles of a handful of highly rated golf courses, including Caledonia Golf & Fish Club on the former Caledonia Plantation, named one of the top 100 public courses by Golf Digest America and the 10th best course in South Carolina by Golf Magazine; and Willbrook Plantation Golf Club, named one of the nation's top 100 courses for women by Golf for Women Magazine.

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