How to train at home for your next climb

Let's be honest. Some days, the crag's call is not quite strong enough to drag you out the doorway, let alone 45 minutes away to your favorite sandstone hangout spot. But that doesn't have to affect your training. In fact, it could just make it better.

Whether you're looking to supplement your training on the rock or you are just fresh out of motivation to journey to the wall, here are a couple of ways you can bolster your climbing ability from the comfort of your living room.

» FINGERS

Enhanced grip strength is crucial for taking your climbing skills to the next level. With stronger fingers, you'll be able to use smaller handholds, making every climb easier and giving you more options when tackling tough routes. Being able to hang on to smaller holds will also allow you to take a moment to rest or plan out your next move.

photo Metolius Project Training Board: $54.95

Fingerboard

Sets: 3-5 Reps: 6 Rest between sets: 1-3 minutes

Easy to mount at home and equipped with a sampling of variously sized holds, this time-honored training tool has long been one of the most effective tools for building finger strength off-rock. Hang from your chosen hold with elbows slightly bent for 7-10 seconds followed by 3-5 seconds of rest to complete one rep.

Careful! Grip-strength training can easily cause injury that could sideline you or negatively impact your climbing. Go slow, with only two or three training sessions a week, and take a break from the workout if you feel too much strain on your arms or fingers.

» ARMS

Upper-body strength is king when it comes to the rock, but too often, climbers forget to uphold a balance. While building the muscles used for pulling (biceps, trapezius, latissimus dorsi), they neglect the opposing muscles used for pushing (triceps, deltoids, pectorals). Developing both sets of muscles can prevent injury, as well as the infamous climber's hunch caused by overdeveloped back muscles.

Push-up

Sets: 3 Reps: 10-15 Rest between sets: 2 minutes

photo Iron Gym Total Upper Body Workout Bar: $25.92

Pull-up

Sets: 3-5 Reps: 10 Rest between sets: 3 minutes

Pro tip: Try alternating between underhand grip (palms facing you) and overhand grip (palms facing away from you) for a more well-rounded workout. The underhand grip will build back muscles, while the overhand grip, which is more similar to climbing, will build shoulder muscles.

» LEGS

Plenty of climbers prefer to keep their legs slim for increased mobility and decreased weight load, but there's a reason you might want to avoid skipping "leg day" during your workouts. Building up lower-body strength can boost your endurance on the rock, allowing you to traverse longer routes and generate more strength for harder moves.

photo Weighted squats

Weighted squats

Sets: 3 Reps: 10 Rest between sets: 90 seconds

The starting weight for your barbell (placed across the upper back) or medicine ball (pictured above) should be the most you can squat with while maintaining proper form. Be sure to keep your back straight and don't extend your knees past your toes.

Bodyweight squats

Sets: 3-5 Reps: As many as you can do in 1 minute Rest between sets: 90 seconds

These squats do not require weights, and can be a great way to perfect your form before you add weights to the mix.

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