Retro peplum jackets back in style for women this season

photo Lorean Mays wears a peplum-style jacket by Mac & Jac, $169, with skinny cropped jeans by Henry & Belle, $159, and a red and white scarf, $59. Fashions courtesy of Frankie & Julian's.

A bit of extra fabric is cinching in waistlines this season, giving women an easy cheat for an hourglass figure.

The peplum, a ruffle that adds volume just below the waist, has a combination fit-and-flare look that works on many body types, fashion experts say.

The style was first brought to the forefront in the 1940s and '50s by designers Jacques Fath and Christian Dior and was reintroduced more recently by Jason Wu and Vera Wang, among others, reported The New York Times.

Kate Middleton, the trendsetting Duchess of Cambridge, sported the style at recent Diamond Jubilee appearances with Queen Elizabeth. Middleton's jacket was belted at the waist, flaring the fabric below.

"Peplums are great because if a woman doesn't have many or any curves, adding a skirt, dress or top with a peplum will give the illusion that she has more curves," said Suzanne West, owner of Frankie & Julian's boutique on Frazier Avenue.

Adding the detail to jackets, she said, "gives them a very sophisticated look."

The style is also flattering on women with fuller hips or "tummy" issues, West said, because what some women perceive as problem areas can be concealed by the peplum.

Katherine Roberts Burger, a former international fashion model and now owner of K Boutique on North Market Street, said the proper fit is key.

"The right proportion on the right figure is really important," she said.

Because the peplum is both fitted and flared, it's doing double duty, she explained.

"The flare is a great look on a woman with a curvier bottom half and smaller top or even someone with a larger middle section," Burger said. "It balances out the figure.

"The 'fitted' really suits a silhouette that is naturally curvy or one that needs the creation of curves because it cinches the waist, creating the hourglass silhouette."

The length of the peplum and the volume it creates between the waist and hips can vary widely, so shoppers should choose wisely. Too much volume can come at the expense of the hips.

Virginia Spangler Polley of Chattanooga said she believes the style must be properly fitted and well tailored to be flattering.

"I do not believe it hides large hips and behinds, and the new asymmetrical peplums should only be worn by the tall and thin," she said.

Hedi Lee-Hesse of Hixson agreed.

"I like peplum very much, but curvy women like myself have to be very careful with it."

Mary Jane Tallant Fitzgerald of Ooltewah said she welcomes the trend.

"Peplums are wonderful for giving the appearance of a trim waist and curvy hips," she said. "I think it's very feminine -- a little Marilyn Monroe crossed with Jackie Kennedy. Perfection."

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