Side Orders: Sweet potato gravy is a tasty switch for Thanksgiving

When taking over the hosting of Thanksgiving dinner from parents or another relative, introduce changes to the menu slowly over several years. Families typically expect to see nostalgic dishes on the table.
When taking over the hosting of Thanksgiving dinner from parents or another relative, introduce changes to the menu slowly over several years. Families typically expect to see nostalgic dishes on the table.

Who volunteers to make gravy for Thanksgiving? Plenty of people offer to make a side dish or dessert to add to the menu. But gravy?

It's funny. If it's not served, people will notice and wonder why. But no one really ever mentions the gravy when it's there. It goes unnoticed for the most part. I mean, you'll hear people rave over the tender turkey, ask who made whatever side dish, ooh and ahh over the desserts. But have you ever heard anyone ever talk about the gravy?

photo Anne Braly

At least, that's how it's been at all of my Thanksgivings until last year when I volunteered to bring sweet potato gravy. It was an experiment-turned-success that became a favorite among family members and one I will make from now on. And, as a cousin of mine remarked last year, the gravy is perfect for those with gluten sensitivities since no flour is used as a thickening agent as it is in traditional turkey gravy.

The recipe, from Wolfgang Puck, is about as easy as any gravy gets. Sweet potatoes are roasted alongside the turkey. There's no need to even peel or cut them. Just wash them, place them in the roasting pan and let them cook while the turkey is baking. If the turkey is large, the potatoes may become tender before the bird is finished, in which case remove the potatoes and continue to cook the turkey until it reaches 160 degrees.

Once the turkey has roasted to a gorgeous golden brown, skim off all those savory juices that have collected at the bottom of the pan, use a spoon to lift the fat out of them (or whatever defat method you prefer) and use them in the gravy.

Use this gravy just like any other - on turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing or any other dishes that demand a spoonful or two.

Sweet Potato Gravy

1-2 baked sweet potatoes (baked alongside the turkey, preferably)

2 cups turkey drippings, fat removed

Chicken broth, if needed

Rosemary, thyme or sage

Sherry, optional

Mash the potatoes and stir them into the turkey drippings, a little bit at a time, using a stick blender to mix until smooth. Add chicken broth or more sweet potatoes to reach the right consistency, then taste for seasonings, adding a little rosemary, thyme or sage and a splash of sherry, if desired.

Thanksgiving wines

If you're trying to decide the best wines to go with your Thanksgiving dinner, here are some suggestions from Italian winery Santa Margherita, whose wines are sold in stores throughout the Volunteer State.

* Chianti is a good match for side dishes such as Brussels sprouts and cornbread stuffing.

* Pinot grigio, with its crisp, intense aroma and dry taste, is a good pairing with roast turkey.

* Prosecco's fruity bouquet is perfect for sipping while enjoying bite after bite of pumpkin, pecan, apple pie or whatever dessert you choose.

And finally...

A couple of weeks ago I wrote about restaurants that will be open on Thanksgiving Day. Here's one more. Terminal Brewhouse, located at 1464 Market St., will be open with a full menu from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Bon appetit and happy Thanksgiving to you all.

Contact Anne Braly at abraly@timesfreepress.com.

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