Fans of Food Network's many youth and adult holiday baking championships know that not a season passes during which contestants aren't challenged with creating a yule log. A holiday temptation that tests contestants' knowledge of flavor combinations and technique, these made-from-scratch cakes are basically chocolate sponge cake filled with flavored whipped cream and covered in a chocolate ganache.
The cakes are named yule logs because they are rolled in a cylindrical shape with the end sliced off to reveal they resemble the inner circles of an actual log (think oversized Little Debbie Swiss Cake Rolls). Their variety of flavors has grown as fast as their comeback in popularity as TV bakers have demonstrated creative variations over multiple holiday season contests.
The traditional burning of a yule log dates back to medieval times when a large log or small tree was cut, dragged into a villager's home and the largest end of the log was placed in the fireplace to provide warmth through the 12 days of Christmas. By the 19th century, the yule log cake (a much safer in-home decoration) emerged and was called Buche de Noel (log of Christmas), derived from its French roots.
The growing popularity of yule logs has spurred Sweet & Savory Classroom to offer a make-and-take baking session for ages 12 and older. The three-hour class is held once a year, and this year's event is set for Dec. 8 at 6 p.m. led by chef Heather Pennypacker. Her husband, Jeff, says it's popular with "people who love to bake, and they come in all ages."
Sarah Hall, 39, a supervisor for BlueCross BlueShield's Provider Networks Operations, says she was 14 when she made her first yule log. Hall grew up in the suburbs of Chicago before moving here in 2003. She laughs as she recalls raising her hand to volunteer when a teacher asked if anyone would make a Buche de Noel for the school French Club's holiday party. Although she had some basic baking skills, she had a teen's naivete when it came to the demands of a yule log.
"As do all good 14-year-olds, I waited until the night before it was due to say to my mom as she was walking out the door to choir practice, 'I have to make this cake for school tomorrow.'
"She took one look at the recipe I had been given and called her mother to ask for help. It was a good thing my grandmother could help because she told me what a lot of the directions meant - like folding in ingredients (instead of beating with a mixer), how to beat egg whites to stiff peaks and how to separate egg yolks and whites."
Hall says she quickly learned this was not "like a Betty Crocker mix where you opened a box, poured out the mix and beat two minutes. This was very labor-intensive."
However, she enjoyed her classmates' reactions so much that she has continued to make a Buche de Noel every December since that first bake in 1994. And she still uses that original recipe given to her by her French teacher (see recipe).
"It's something different. Everybody really enjoys it. When you make something that everyone likes, you tend to make it over again and again," she says.
Now her children join her in making the traditional Christmas pastry.
Her recipe yields eight servings, but can be sliced thinner.
"It is very dense and rich with cream and chocolate. It's not one you want a giant piece of," she says.
But you will come back for more.
Email Susan Pierce at beagle luvr126@yahoo.com.
Buche de Noel
Cake:
1/2 cup cake flour
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
4 eggs, separated
3/4 cup superfine sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Powdered sugar
Glaze:
1/3 cup apricot jam
1 tablespoon dark rum
Filling:
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup powdered sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 cup finely chopped hazelnuts
Canned mocha buttercream frosting (see note)
Heat oven to 400 degrees.
Grease a 10-inch by 15-inch jelly roll pan, press parchment paper into the pan and grease the paper.
Sift flour, cocoa and baking powder into a bowl, and set aside.
In another bowl, beat eggs yolks until creamy. Add superfine sugar, and beat about 5 minutes until thick and light in color. Then add vanilla.
Gradually fold in flour mixture until well blended.
In another bowl, beat egg whites until stiff. Stir a heaping spoonful into the batter to loosen it, then fold in the rest of the egg whites.
Spread in the prepared pan, and bake 12-15 minutes. Cake is done when you can gently press the top with your finger and it springs back.
Lay a linen towel down flat, and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Invert cake onto towel, and carefully pull off parchment paper.
Sprinkle top of cake with powdered sugar. Roll the cake up in the towel like a Swiss cake roll from short end to short end. Place rolled cake (in towel, seam side down) on a cooling rack, and let cool about 15 minutes.
Press jam through a mesh strainer over a small saucepan on low heat. Once jam is melted, remove from heat and stir in rum.
In a cold bowl, mix heavy cream, powdered sugar and vanilla until peaks form (not too soft/not too hard). Fold in chopped hazelnuts.
Unroll the cake. Using a pastry brush, "paint" the glaze onto the top of the cake. Spread whipped cream filling evenly on top of that, stopping 1/2 inch away from the edges as the cream will push out as the cake is rolled back up. Begin rolling the cake back up with the filling, carefully pulling the cake from the linen towel (it will stick). Once it is rolled, place it on a plate, cover and place in the fridge until ready to decorate.
Note: Sarah Hall says when she began making yule logs, mocha buttercream frosting was sold in a can. Since she no longer finds that available, she adds instant coffee crystals to chocolate buttercream and whips them together.
After frosting, gently "comb" the length of the yule log with the edge of a serrated knife to give the appearance of bark.
If desired, slice one end off the log, exposing the swirls of the roll to view. Attach the cut slice to the side of the log with icing to resemble a cut branch. Bakers may also choose to make meringue mushrooms to decorate the plated presentation, pipe holly and berry designs onto the log in icing or sprinkle with a light dusting of powdered sugar to resemble snow.