PITTSBURGH — Thanksgiving in normal times means getting together with family and friends to celebrate the many blessings of the past year. Tradition calls for a giant turkey with all the fixings, spirited conversation around the dinner table and a fight over leftovers.
These are not normal times.
With the coronavirus still spreading, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention is advising small in-person gatherings this year to protect individuals and families from the virus. Even Dr. Anthony Fauci is famously skipping spending the holiday with his three adult daughters, and according to recent surveys, almost 30% of Americans will host only immediate family on Nov. 26.
That means a lot of young adults and others who might otherwise have gone home or to a friend's house to enjoy home cooking on Thanksgiving will instead be preparing dinner for themselves this year — even if they aren't particularly well-versed in the kitchen.
The holiday meal has so many moving parts that it's no wonder some cooks are consumed by fear. It's even worse if you're doing it for the first time, without the gadgets, cookware, dinnerware and knife skills a seasoned cook has at the ready.
To those rookie chefs, we say: Take a breath. With equal measures of preparation, convenience and courage, a tasty Turkey Day still is within reach.
Gaynor Grant, director of Gaynor's School of Cooking on the South Side, said learning to cook is like learning a new language. "The older you are when you start doing it, the harder it is."
"I find it relaxing after a full day," said Grant, who started her culinary training in 1973. "But for others it's a chore that takes a long time if you haven't been taught the basics."
What you've got to your advantage on Thanksgiving, she noted, is that the traditional meal of roast turkey, stuffing and mashed potatoes is not difficult, even for beginners. It's more an issue of timing and planning than culinary expertise.
"If you've only got one oven, you really have to plan well for what you're going to make," she said.
Also on the plus side: You probably have at least a little cooking know-how. Nearly 20% of people in a recent Butterball survey said they feel more confident about preparing the holiday dinner this year, thanks to all the meal prep we've had to do during the pandemic. You're also more comfortable than ever about accepting help. Some 55% surveyed said they're open to having premade sides to make Thanksgiving as simple and convenient as possible.
In other words, it's perfectly OK to serve your homemade turkey with Pepperidge Farm stuffing and instant or frozen mashed potatoes.
For the dishes you insist on making from scratch, Grant suggests making whatever you can a few days in advance. Brussels sprouts and potatoes, for example, can be blanched beforehand and stored in the fridge, so all you have to do is throw them in hot water on that Thursday. Also, if you're tackling a new recipe, practice it a couples of times beforehand until you've got it down pat.
"Do a spreadsheet and get things planned out," she suggested. Do you have the ability to safely store everything you buy for the meal? Do you have all the pots and pans you need?
If you're cooking a frozen turkey, give it enough time to properly thaw in the refrigerator, a process that can take days depending on the size.
A whole turkey is probably not a great idea for small crowds unless you have a big oven and want a ton of leftovers. Maybe go with a more manageable whole or split turkey breast. They take up less space, cook in a flash (15 minutes per pound), and are much easier to carve. Plan upon 1-1 1/4 pounds of turkey and 3/4 cup of stuffing per guest.
Grant's basic rules for roast turkey are to always preheat the oven, use a rack if you've got one, don't go any higher than 350 degrees and baste the bird (breast side up) with fat or melted butter every 15-20 minutes. Don't worry about covering it with foil unless it starts to brown too quickly. Then gently lay the foil on top rather than wrapping it tightly to avoid trapping moisture.
While the breast will probably come with an inserted timer, chances are you won't know when it pops so rely on a meat thermometer instead. You'll know it's done when the juices start to run clear and the meat registers 165 degrees.
"Then let it rest before you carve it," she said.
When it comes to planning the rest of the menu, registered dietitian Caroline West Passerrello, who teaches at the University of Pittsburgh, suggests restricting your options to things that add value and satisfaction if you have limited resources. Do you really need rolls if there's mashed potatoes and stuffing?
"Don't make things you can easily have on other days," she said.
This might be the time to ask Grandma about that recipe you've always wanted to learn to make. For moral support, you could even ask her to cook along with you virtually on Thanksgiving day via Zoom or Facebook Live.
Hosts also need to be vigilant about food safety. Wash your hands frequently in hot, soapy water and keep raw and cooked foods separate during preparation. Once dinner is on the table, don't leave cooked food out any longer than two hours, she said, and refrigerate it in a shallow dish so it quickly gets to 40 degrees.
"You don't want to overstuff the fridge," she said, because it prevents cool air from circulating around food and maintaining its proper temperature. Also, the longer you plan on storing something, the more robust the container should be.
If this is your first time preparing Thanksgiving, keep it simple: a pan-roasted turkey breast slathered in herb butter, Brussels sprouts roasted with Craisins (dried cranberries) and balsamic vinegar and, for dessert, a flaky apple tart made with frozen puff pastry.
For sides, go with packaged stuffing and instant mashed potatoes. Or, if you're feeling a little more confident, here's how to dish up homemade mashed potatoes: Cook peeled and quartered potatoes in boiling water until tender, drain, place in a bowl with butter, salt and a little warm milk or cream and mash with a potato masher or electric beater until smooth and creamy.
Homemade cranberry sauce is easier still and can be made a day or two in advance. Simply combine a 12-ounce bag of fresh cranberries with 1 cup of orange juice, 1 cup of sugar and a pinch of cinnamon in a medium saucepan. Cook over medium heat until cranberries start to pop, about 10 minutes, then remove from heat and place sauce in a bowl. It will thicken as it cools.
The goal of this year's Thanksgiving dinner, said Passerello, should not be perfection. "It's not going to be the cover of a magazine."
Settle for the joy of safely gathering for a meal with people who love you and whatever you serve.
Lemon Herb Turkey Breast
With fewer people at your Thanksgiving table, a whole turkey might not be necessary. A whole or split breast offers the same great holiday flavor, but it's easier (and faster) to cook — no flipping, basting or fuss. Slathering herbed butter under the skin will help keep it moist. Be sure to allow the turkey to rest for 15-20 minutes to give the juices time to redistribute.
1 bone-in whole or split turkey breast, rinsed and patted dry
3 tablespoons butter, softened
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried basil
1/2 teaspoon rubbed sage
1 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled
1 lemon, cut in half
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat oven to 350 degrees.
Place turkey breast in a large roasting pan, on a rack if possible, and pat dry with paper towels inside and out. Loosen skin on the breast with your fingers, being careful not to tear or poke through it.
Place butter in small bowl, and add garlic, thyme, basil, sage and rosemary. Squeeze juice from one half lemon, and mix together with a fork.
Using your fingers, rub half of the butter mixture under the turkey skin. Don't worry if it clumps — it will melt as it cooks. Rub remaining butter over the top and sides of the breast, squeeze juice from other half of lemon on top and then sprinkle lightly with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Roast for 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes, depending on size (15 minutes per pound), or until the meat registers 165 degrees in the thickest part of the breast (without touching bone). Loosely tent with foil, and let turkey rest for 10 minutes before carving.
Serves 4, with a some leftovers.
— Gretchen McKay
Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Craisins
Brussels sprouts are a classic side dish at Thanksgiving. When you roast them with a little oil and salt, they end up crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. This recipe brings bacon and Craisins to the mix, with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar and honey as a finishing touch.
1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut in half through the core
4 slices bacon, cut into a small dice
1/4 cup good olive oil
1/3 cup Craisins or golden raisins
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon honey or maple syrup
Heat oven to 425 degrees. Place Brussels sprouts on a sheet pan, including some of the loose leaves (they will crisp as they cook).
Add bacon, olive oil and Craisins, then season liberally with salt and pepper. Toss veggies with your hands to make sure they're coated in oil, then spread out in a single layer.
Roast Brussels sprouts for 20 to 30 minutes, until tender and golden and bacon is crispy. Drizzle balsamic vinegar and honey over the roasted sprouts, and toss to coat evenly with a spoon or tongs. Taste, and adjust seasoning, if necessary, then serve.
— Gretchen McKay
Easy Apple Tart
Using puff pastry for the crust means it comes together quick and easy, with just a rolling pin, paring knife and cookie sheet. If you don't like fig jam, substitute peach or apricot or simply brush the apples with honey. I also sprinkled a little sanding sugar on top for a bit of glitz.
1 sheet frozen puff pastry (from a standard 17.3-ounce package), thawed
All-purpose flour, for dusting work surface
3 or 4 tart apples, such as Granny Smith or Empire
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 large egg yolk, beaten with 1 teaspoon water, for egg wash
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons fig jam
Vanilla ice cream, for serving
Heat oven to 375 degrees.
Open pastry sheet, and remove paper. Fold sheet back up. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out pastry sheet (still folded) to an 8- by 14-inch rectangle. Don't worry if it's not perfect, as it's supposed to be rustic. If you like, trim the edges with a sharp knife, bench scraper or pizza cutter. Transfer to a baking sheet, and place in freezer while you prepare apples.
Peel, core, and slice apples 1/4-inch thick. Toss in a large bowl with sugars.
Brush pastry with egg wash, being careful to avoid the edges. Pile apples in the middle, leaving about a 1-inch border of crust. Dot apples with butter.
Bake until pastry is golden and apples are tender, 30 to 35 minutes.
Combine jelly or jam with 1 tablespoon water in a small bowl, and microwave until melted. Brush apples with glaze.
The tart can be served warm or at room temperature, with a scoop of ice cream.
— Gretchen McKay