Long before foodies began pigging out on prosciutto, the buttery ham that has become the darling of culinary aficionados, America had country ham. Here in the South, we turned our noses up at that stuff in the deli case with signs proclaiming it was country ham. Sure, both come from a pig, but true country ham is legendary, an art handed down by generations of those knowing the right way to cure it and patiently wait for it to reach ham nirvana.
While it's still possible to find uncooked country ham, it's far easier to find it cooked and just as yummy with its salty, exquisite taste. Deli hams and those unappealing canned hams should tuck their curlicue tails and make a run for it when country ham enters the scene.
We've always loved country ham on our biscuits, in our omelets or as a side to fried eggs and hash browns. But as we celebrate Country Ham Month - no doubt you have this marked on your calendar - consider pairing it with mushrooms and grits. It may just become your new food addiction.
Mushrooms in cream are surely one of the world's great gastronomical inventions. And when a little dry-aged country ham and a bit of fresh thyme are added to the mix, the result is a dish with a lovely autumnal fragrance and depth of flavor that enhances even the mildest of fungi. The combination is the perfect way to bid farewell to the all-too-brief season for chanterelles. If you missed out on chanterelles, use your favorite fresh mushrooms. This recipe is too good to wait until next season.
In this recipe, the country ham and mushrooms are spooned over sautéed grits cakes, but they're also lovely over buttered toast or as a sauce for pasta. A nice big splash of sherry finishes the sauce, if desired.
Grits Cakes With Country Ham-Mushroom Sauce
Mushroom cream sauce:
3/4 pound chanterelle mushrooms (or your favorite variety)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium shallot, trimmed, peeled and minced (about 1/4 cup)
1 ounce (1/4 cup) julienned country ham
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon sherry, or to taste (optional)
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup heavy cream
Grits cakes:
4 cups water
1 cup uncooked grits (not quick-cooking)
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or aged, extra-sharp cheddar, such as Aldi's Vintage White Irish Cheddar
Salt
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
To make sauce: Brush the mushrooms clean with a soft brush or dry cloth, and cut them into thick slices. Put the butter and shallots in a sauté pan or skillet over medium heat. Sauté, tossing often, until the shallots are pale gold. Add the ham, and sauté, tossing constantly, until it just loses its red color.
Raise the heat to medium-high, add the mushrooms and thyme, and sauté, tossing almost constantly, until the mushrooms are still firm and just beginning to color, 3-4 minutes. Add sherry, if using, salt and a liberal grinding of pepper, and toss. Pour in the cream, and bring to a boil, stirring constantly, until it is reduced and thick. Set aside while making grits cakes.
Make the grits cakes: Bring the water to a boil in a heavy-bottomed 3-quart saucepan. Stirring constantly, add the grits in a thin, steady stream. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, until they begin to thicken slightly. Lower the heat to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until very thick and tender. Stir in the cream, and simmer 2-3 minutes longer. Remove from heat, stir in the cheese, taste and adjust the salt. Choose a baking dish in which the grits will come 1/2 inch up the sides. Pour in the grits, 1/2-inch deep in the dish. Let cool, cover, and chill until quite firm.
To unmold, loosen the edges of the grits and carefully unmold onto a cutting board and cut into 8 (1/2-inch-thick) rounds using a 2 1/4-inch round biscuit cutter.
Melt the butter in a large nonstick pan over medium heat. Swirl the pan to film the bottom with the melted butter, raise the heat to medium-high, and sauté the grits cakes until they are golden brown on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Carefully turn, and sauté until the second side is equally browned. Transfer to warm serving plates. Return mushroom sauce to heat, and bring the sauce back to a simmer, taste and adjust seasonings, as desired, then ladle over grits cakes and serve immediately. Makes 2 main-dish servings or 4 appetizers, a perfect start to an autumn meal.
Contact Anne Braly at abraly@timesfreepress.com or annebraly.com.
Anne Braly