Ellington

Description

Clinton Presidential Center has undergone a metamorphosis. It has gone up the scale a bit under its new management, with a new style, a new menu and even a tweaked name. Cafe 42 is no longer a cafe. It's now called Forty Two, which still reflects that Bill Clinton was the nation's 42nd president. But it also reflects the higher level of cuisine from food service Aramark, which has taken over the facility in the basement of the "Bridge to the 21st Century" landmark, and new executive chef James Coulter. For a place that's just open for lunch and Sunday brunch, Forty Two sports a pretty classy menu. It makes a good showcase for out-of-town visitors and a nice alternative if you're looking for someplace a little more upscale for a business lunch. And the new prix fixe Sunday brunch, replacing what was previously a first-rate buffet, is absolutely top-notch and, all things considered, a decent bargain. You get an excellent two-course meal (appetizer and entree), an all-youcan- eat dessert and cheese bar and a mimosa (in compliance with state law, served only after noon and not to those under 21) for $18.99, $12.99 for the kiddies. Of course, it's still the only restaurant in town for which you have to pass through a metal detector before you dine. Some of Coulter's offerings have an Arkansas accent - for example, the Ouachita Cheese Fries appetizer ("hand-cut fried potatoes with cheddar cheese, apple-wood smoked bacon, spicy pickled okra and jalapenos," $6.99), and the Fried Local Catfish entree ($10.99) with fennel slaw, tomato relish and handmade corn beignets. The soup of the day ($3.29) was a pleasant surprise: Asian Beef, lean meat and vegetables in a tangy and somewhat spicy broth.