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Friday, October 30, 2026Oct 30

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Meat and potatoes made magical

According to David Tanis, a top-quality steak such as this rib-eye, served with herbed, buttery potatoes. makes a special dinner for two.  (Karsten Moran/The New York Times)
According to David Tanis, a top-quality steak such as this rib-eye, served with herbed, buttery potatoes. makes a special dinner for two. (Karsten Moran/The New York Times) According to David Tanis, a top-quality steak such as this rib-eye, served with herbed, buttery potatoes. makes a special dinner for two. (Karsten Moran/The New York Times)

And to drink …

A fine steak calls for an equally fine red wine, ideally with structure and intensity, yet without leaving the impression of fruity sweetness. California cabernet or Bordeaux are excellent choices, especially those wines of the traditional school that have savory depth rather than upfront sweet fruit. But other bottles can be equally good. A great sangiovese wine, like a Chianti Classico or a Brunello di Montalcino, is wonderful with steak. So is a deep, rich syrah, like a Cornas or Hermitage. Honestly, you won’t go wrong with just about any red, but if you are investing in a top-flight steak, why not complete the experience with a wine of comparable style and quality?— Eric Asimov, New York Times News Service

photo Herbed, buttery potatoes pair perfectly with steak. (Karsten Moran/The New York Times)

If you’re cooking for a special occasion, your best friend, sweetheart or spouse deserves the finest dinner you can produce. For many people, that means the simple luxury of steak and potatoes. Instead of going to a crowded restaurant, you can easily pull off this meal at home – and use the money you save by splurging on an expensive, top-quality cut like rib-eye or tenderloin or strip steak.

Of the three choices, I prefer the rib-eye. It makes the most succulent steak, richly marbled and very tasty. (In France, this cut is called côte de boeuf and considered very special.)

Not to dismiss the milder tenderloin, sliced into filets mignon, but to me those are best pan-fried in butter with a lot of pepper. They are delicious, but not as meaty. Strip loin, or New York strip steak, can be quite lean and thus a bit chewy, but some swear by it. I find it makes a good roast beef, cooked whole.

But we digress. Assuming you’re going for a high-end steak, you’ll want to stop in a real butcher shop if you can. Or order from a source you trust. It will cost you but will still be cheaper than dinner out for two. Rather than buying two pieces for two people, get one large steak, about 2 inches thick. It will produce juicier, more flavorful meat. Cover it with generous dashes of salt and pepper, a little sliced garlic and some roughly chopped rosemary, then leave it for a while to absorb the seasonings. (You’ll remove the garlic before cooking, as it would burn immediately in the hot skillet.)