There’s nothing like roasting a whole hog, or having a pig pickin’, as it’s often called in the South, to bring people together. “It’s a group bonding experience when you cook a whole animal,” says FEED Co. Executive Chef Charlie Loomis, who’s roasted at least 30 pigs in his lifetime and generously agreed to share a few tips with Chatter readers. In certain parts of the world – such as Puerto Rico, Hawaii, and Brazil (where Loomis’ mother grew up )- it’s a traditional dish, often used for large celebrations like weddings, Christmas and New Year’s. So, as the holidays approach, consider going whole hog for your next gathering.
Pig pickin’ tips
How pigs are raised and what they’re fed makes a difference in the taste. Loomis says he typically sources pigs from farmers around town, naming Sequatchie Cove as one local farm he’s used several times in the past with good results. The farm’s pigs are a heritage breed, Gloucestershire Old Spots, which live outside in pastures and the neighboring woods, foraging for acorns, walnuts and persimmons. The breed is known for its tender, flavorful meat, the result of greater moisture retention in the pigs’ muscles, according to the website of the Gloucestershire Old Spots Pig Breeders’ Club, of which Sequatchie Cove is a member. A good fat-to-lean ratio, with a lot of marbling throughout the muscles, is always good to have, says Loomis. You’ll need to order your pig at least two weeks in advance.
Choose your wood
When he’s smoking meats at FEED, Loomis says he likes to use a mix of cherry and apple wood; but since a whole pig doesn’t pick up as much flavor from the wood, for that he’ll use any aromatic wood that’s not too overpowering, such as maple or pecan.