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Saturday, November 14, 2026Nov 14

From calm to chaos: A reporter’s escorted visit to Syria

In this photo taken on Wednesday, March 2, 2016, a Syrian solder helps an elderly woman as she comes to receive humanitarian aid from Russian military near Maarzaf, about 15 kilometers west of Hama, Syria.  Associated Press spent five days traveling through the port of Latakia and the surrounding areas in Syria during the cease-fire.  (AP Photo/Pavel Golovkin)
In this photo taken on Wednesday, March 2, 2016, a Syrian solder helps an elderly woman as she comes to receive humanitarian aid from Russian military near Maarzaf, about 15 kilometers west of Hama, Syria. Associated Press spent five days traveling through the port of Latakia and the surrounding areas in Syria during the cease-fire. (AP Photo/Pavel Golovkin)

LATAKIA, Syria (AP) – At first glance, the Mediterranean port of Latakia doesn’t look like a city at war. Its streets are jammed with traffic, stylish women chat under palm trees, and idyllic orange groves stretch for miles.

But the signs become apparent on closer inspection: a man in camouflage shopping with a Kalashnikov slung on his shoulder, the occasional military checkpoint, and rows of unfinished cottages and apartment buildings whose construction was interrupted by Syria’s 5-year-old civil war.

For a group of international reporters on a five-day trip to Syria organized by the Russian Foreign and Defense ministries, the contrasts were stark.

From our military-escorted bus, we rode through a relaxed and sun-splashed Latakia, located in the heart of President Bashar Assad’s Alawite homeland.

We passed burned-out tanks, armored personnel carriers and a shattered bus in areas of recent battles.