Good morning, readers.
– Odell Waddell, who is an expert at asking questions, posed this one today. “I was in a restaurant in Decatur today and they were selling marinated cucumbers. I have a few cucumbers at home. Any idea of how to marinate them?”
– A medical student named Daniel is looking for “help in making bagels: recipes, instructions and where to get supplies.”
– Regular Reader needs your help with two frustrations in his or her kitchen. “First, I tasted Chick-fil-A grilled chicken nuggets recently, and I want to know how to make chicken that is this juicy and tender. I have another favorite food, baby kale, which is tender (unlike regular kale). I have only been able to find it in a big plastic container at Whole Foods, but it just doesn’t last. The leaves turn yellow very quickly. So, my requests are: where to buy smaller containers of baby kale and how to keep it from going bad quickly.”
CUCUMBERS
As often happens, one who poses a question also discovers an answer. So it was today, when Odell Waddell knew whom to ask about marinated cucumbers. His daughter, Mary Frances, is an expert at cooking and hospitality. This is her reply; the reader will have to decide the proportions on his or her own.
Of course there are many ways to marinate a cucumber, so the rest of you, add other versions, please. Surely some of your gardens are full of them.
(Here’s a cucumber caution. I threw out the peculiar product of our cucumber plants. They were round and yellow, not long and green. It took a conversation with Cousin Polly to discover that these are lemon cucumbers, and grow of course true to seed. Alas.)
Marinated Cucumbers a la Mary Frances
Small cucumbers or the large “burpless” cucumbers, peeled and sliced thin
Greek yogurt, plain and unsweetened
Chopped fresh cilantro
Chopped scallions
Fresh lime juice
Salt
Hot sauce
Avocado, cut in chunks and (unless you are eating immediately) tossed with a little lime juice in a small bowl
Peel and slice cucumbers. In a separate bowl prepare the sauce, and season to taste. Greek yogurt will be your base; you might start with a cup of yogurt. Stir in cilantro and scallions, and season with the juice of a small lime for each cup of yogurt, salt and your favorite hot sauce to taste. We like Tennessee Sunshine or red or green Tabasco.
Mix sauce gently with the drained cucumbers. Don’t drown the cukes in the sauce; you want the cucumbers to dominate.
Drain the avocado chunks, and fold them gently into the cucumber mixture. Serve immediately.
If you are going to prepare in advance, omit the avocado and add at the last minute, just before serving.
FRITTATA
Billy Eiselstein wrote from his Atlanta home, having learned about good food in his native Chattanooga. And as often turns out, part of his learning includes a legacy from his maternal grandmother.
“Regarding the comment in your recent column that cast-iron pans are hard to clean, a well-seasoned one is not. The pans I use were handed down from my mother’s mother, Mary Hanks, in whose care they benefited from daily exposure to sausage patties and fried foods for 50-plus years.
“In a sermon years ago – something about Lot’s wife – the Rev. Brad Whitaker at St. Paul’s said his mother cleaned her cast-iron pans with salt. I don’t remember the rest of it, but since then, I’ve cleaned the pans with coarse salt and paper towels, a quick rinse with water if needed, but no soap, and that keeps the seasoning intact.”
As evidence, Mr. Eiselstein produced a photograph of his recent mushroom and leek frittata in an unstuck cast-iron skillet seasoned by his grandmother. “The frittata, in an 8-inch pan, was sautéed on the stove and finished in the oven.” Of course I asked for the recipe to pass on to all of you, and he kindly obliged.
Mushroom and Leek Frittata
2-plus tablespoons olive oil (divided)
Leeks (white and pale green parts from 1 medium or 2 small leeks), thinly sliced
1/2 cup thinly sliced mushrooms such as crimini or more to your taste
Salt to taste
Chopped asparagus (optional)
6 eggs
1/4 cup cream
Salt to taste
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1/2 cup shredded cheese (semi-hard cow’s milk, such as Tomme or Emmental)
Heat olive oil in an 8-inch ovenproof skillet over medium heat.
Heat oven to 350 degrees.
Add thinly sliced leeks. When leeks begin to soften, add thinly sliced mushrooms and salt. When mushrooms soften, add some chopped asparagus (optional).
While vegetables cook, beat eggs with cream. Add salt, parsley and shredded cheese.
When liquid has evaporated from vegetables, add another tablespoon of oil and pour eggs over vegetables. Cook undisturbed until edges begin to set.
Sprinkle more cheese on top, and transfer to oven for 15 minutes or until fully set.
GNOCCHI
A Chattanooga newcomer, A.L., packed into the family’s considerable luggage a recipe from “my new favorite magazine, Bon Appetit.” She discovered that the shelf-stable gnocchi she often bought for her young children could turn into a special-occasion meal on busy summer days.
Sheet Pan Gnocchi
1/2 large red onion, cut into -inch-thick wedges
2 large garlic cloves, unpeeled
2 pints cherry tomatoes
1 (17.6-ounce) package shelf-stable or refrigerated potato gnocchi
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling
1 1/2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal or 1 teaspoon Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 cups baby arugula
1 cup basil leaves, large leaves torn
2 ounces Parmesan, shaved
Place a rack in middle of oven; heat to 425 degrees. Toss onion, garlic, tomatoes, gnocchi, 3 tablespoons oil and 1 1/4 teaspoon Diamond Crystal or 3/4 teaspoon Morton kosher salt on a rimmed baking sheet to coat; season generously with pepper and toss again to combine.
Roast, stirring once or twice, until gnocchi are golden and starting to crisp, most of the tomatoes have burst and onion is golden, 25 to 30 minutes.
Remove garlic from baking sheet, peel and place in a small bowl. Mash with teaspoon salt (garlic should be quite soft). Whisk in lemon juice and remaining 1 tablespoon oil; season dressing with pepper and more salt if needed.
Add arugula, basil and Parmesan to baking sheet, and drizzle dressing over; toss to combine. Divide among plates, and drizzle with a little more oil.
Makes 4 servings.
Thank you for all you have given in good taste. Next week?
REQUESTS
* Marinated cucumbers
* DIY bagels
* Grilled chicken like Chick-fil-A’s
* Keeping baby kale fresh
TO REACH US
Fare Exchange is a longtime meeting place for people who love to cook and love to eat. We welcome both your recipes and your requests. Be sure to include precise instructions for every recipe you send.
Mailing address: Jane Henegar, 913 Mount Olive Road, Lookout Mountain, GA 30750
Email: chattfare@gmail.com
Jane Henegar