Restaurant review: Noodles & Pho a delicious introduction to Vietnamese fare

I should start by saying that I’m not Vietnamese. Although it’s a country I’d be interested in visiting, I’ve never been to Vietnam. Therefore, my idea of what authentic Vietnamese food tastes and looks like could be way off; I have no way of knowing otherwise. That being said, I do have a very acute idea of what delicious food tastes and looks like, and the dishes served by Noodle & Pho (pronounced fuh) in Hixson more than meet those standards.

Nestled in the Northtowne Center just north of Hamilton Memorial Gardens, Noodle & Pho is a quiet, unassuming restaurant. The sign outside is straightforward, just like the restaurant’s name. Noodle & Pho: It’s plainly stating exactly what it sells. It’d be like if an Italian restaurant called itself “Spaghetti and Meatballs” or if a British restaurant were called “Vinegar and Sadness.”

The restaurant was noticeably clean, organized and modern. Seating around 40 people maximum, it never once felt cramped. The owner is a sweet Vietnamese woman whose name, unfortunately, I did not catch. She also works as the waitress, working nonstop to cater to every customer.

The first thing I noticed when I looked at the menu is that it was certainly not Americanized. No hint of chicken fingers or french fries anywhere, just translated dish names with their Vietnamese spellings next to them. The menu included a fairly unique beer list but no liquor. Although I’m not much for beer, my dad, who accompanied me, said there was a good selection of Japanese, Vietnamese and Thai beer that you might not find at a chain, as well as some typical American fare. Perfect for someone trying to broaden their horizons a bit.

There were only a few categories on the menu: appetizers, pho, noodle dishes and rice dishes. The pho section was the must substantial, featuring roughly 15 variants on the soup. Pho is the national dish of Vietnam. The delicate, clear beef broth can take over 24 hours to create. Its seasoning spices, such as black cardamom, star anise and cinnamon, are typically roasted over an open flame. Rice noodles, fresh bean sprouts, lime juice, cilantro and other toppings are featured heavily. It’s eaten breakfast, lunch and/or dinner depending where in Vietnam you are.

Most dishes in Vietnam feature some level of French influence due to France’s occupation. Some of it is subtle, such as the cuts of beef found in pho. Other times it’s obvious, such as with banh mi, a warm sub sandwich with grilled pork, cilantro and lemongrass on a French baguette. As a whole, Vietnamese cuisine is milder and more subtle than that of nearby Thailand and India, so if you find Thai and Indian food to be too pungent or spicy, Vietnamese might be for you.

The second thing I noticed about the menu is how reasonable the pricing was, considering that the portion sizes are downright American. Most pho bowls were around $7.99, and each banh mi was only $4. We ordered a banh mi for each of us, spring rolls and pork dumplings as appetizers. Although it took a little bit for the waitress to get to our table, once we’d put in our drink and appetizer orders, it was smooth sailing.

The banh mi was fresh and warm with a unique flavor you’re not likely to get anywhere else. Lemongrass, carrot and cilantro mix wonderfully with grilled pork and chili sauce. As I took mental notes about the meal as I ate, I worried that I’d overuse the word “fresh” in this review, because everything we tried fit that description. The spring rolls were crispy without being oily, and the dumplings looked like they could have been right out of the hands of a street vendor in Saigon.

We both opted to try a bowl of pho as our main course. My dad ordered pho tai, or rare beef pho, and I had bo kho, or stewing beef pho. It was a little difficult to determine the exact differences between some of the pho, though I imagine that would be easier the more familiar I get with the food.

Our orders came out almost unbelievably quickly; the expediency of the service can’t be understated. It more than made up for the noticeable wait for us to get our drink orders in.

Now, to the pho itself. As I said before, I’m not Vietnamese, but I do know tasty food. Chicken noodle soup, eat your heart out.

My order of pho was one of the best bowls of soup I’ve ever had. The broth was extremely refreshing, and the lime, bean sprouts and cilantro made the soup crisp and delicious. My dad’s bowl was a very traditional pho with mild, thin slices of beef steak. My bowl was a heartier take on the dish with thick chunks of chuck roast and carrot in a spicier broth. Eating it may be a bit of a struggle for those unfamiliar with chopsticks, so if you find yourself second-guessing your dexterity, I wholly suggest taking the walk of shame and asking for a fork.

We ordered a rice dish to try about halfway through our soup. The lemongrass stir-fried beef came equally as quickly as the soup did, and the ample portions showed that Noodle & Pho doesn’t skimp on its non-pho entrees. Lemongrass isn’t a spice that many are accustomed to, but the dish was a wonderful blend of spice, umami and refreshing sweetness. Succumbing to gluttony, I finished my bowl, my banh mi, some of the stir-fried beef and much of the appetizers.

I would not be exaggerating to say I gorged myself at that dinner, and it was marvelous. Not once did I regret it; there was so much delicious food available, how could I not? The appetizers were wonderfully fresh and crisp, the pho spread a pleasant warmth through my bones like no other soup ever has, and the lemongrass beef was a succulent capstone to the night.

This is my first review for ChattanoogaNow, so I’m not sure how much I’m allowed to gush, but please give Noodle & Pho a try. It deserves your business and you deserve to try this unbelievable food. The best praise I can give it is this: Everything on the menu could cost twice as much as it was listed for, and I’d still be more than pleased with what I got. I might seriously end up in debt eating at this restaurant.

Contact Shane Foley at sfoley@timesfreepress.com or 423-757-6506.