Restaurant Scene: Smoke on the River providing great food for Naked River Brewing

Good times are ahead for Naked River Brewing Co. and all who love sipping on its cold beers and eating on the sunny patio across the street from Finley Stadium: It is back open!

In January, speculation bubbled online about the brewery’s extended holiday closure, and founder Jake Raulston told me via text that the brewpub would not be permanently closing.

“The group who was managing,” Raulston said, “has left, and we are trying to get everything switched back over, which takes time.”

I had written that I hoped Naked River would stay open. And after stopping in for lunch Wednesday, I can happily say, they are back and better than ever.

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Naked River is delivering the beers you know and love while partnering with Smoke on the River to provide the food.

You might be familiar with co-owners Marc Holder and Jaran Moore, who have a deli and catering kitchen called Flame and Flavor.

“Holder’s family immigrated through Ellis Island from Sicily,” the website says, “marking the beginning of his culinary adventure.”

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I spoke with Moore at the restaurant, and he said that when they were making batches of meatballs at their deli, sometimes they would flatten one on the griddle to make sure it tasted right. They used this inspiration for their menu items at Smoke on the River.

I ordered the candied smash — the aforementioned famous meatball smashed into two juicy, herby, burger patties topped with crispy candied bacon, almost caramelized, with stringy pepper jack melted over the meat and a delectable dollop of house barbecue sauce. The burger was served with rosemary fries, which were thin and crunchy.

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Moore told me that eventually Smoke on the River will be hand cutting its fries and adding weekly specials. He described the food as Sicilian and Appalachian fusion. The smashburger (or smash meatball, if you’re one for semantics) was served on an onion roll.

The menu also features starters, like hillbilly sushi (house-smoked pork tossed in smoked cheddar and deep-fried), mac and cheese made from scratch, a house salad, ample kids’ menu options and sweet treats such as a cannoli and a fried MoonPie.

Contact Lyric Lewin at llewin@timesfreepress.com or 423-757-6215.