Of all the Christmas goodies that hosts and hostesses have traditionally laid by for drop-in guests during the holidays, cheese straws speak close to my heart. My mother had a special tin she always kept filled with them starting the week after Thanksgiving through the new year, and I have that tin in my possession now, though I’m not as committed to keeping it full of cheese straws like she did.
Called cheese “biscuits” in those beloved, well-worn community cookbooks, they’re not to be confused with the cheese-flecked baking powder bread popular today. Food historians will tell you that back then, “biscuit” was still being used in its older form to designate a crisp cookie. Any fans of Britbox shows will recognize that term when served with tea.
There are many variations. My mother’s really were cheese biscuits, and were laced with puffed rice cereal, which made them very light and delicate. Mama didn’t use a cookie press, but rolled them out and cut them into little rounds that she often topped with a pecan before baking. She made them ahead of time and stockpiled them in the freezer.
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Underneath these various shapes — round or straws — they’re all just variations on savory butter shortbread that’s especially popular during the winter holidays. They’re the taste that says “Christmas” the most for me.
The secret to good cheese straws is, of course, good cheese. While the original may have been made with Parmesan, an aged, super-sharp cheddar has long been the standard in the South. We use the orange kind — not white cheddar, often mixed with a little Parmesan for extra zing, though white cheddar can, of course, be substituted if you prefer it; just use the oldest, sharpest cheese you can get your hands on. It does make a difference, and I can usually pick up some good aged cheddar at Aldi.
Two-Cheese Cheese “Biscuits”
12 ounces extra-sharp cheddar
4 ounces Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon salt
10 ounces (about 2 cups) all-purpose flour
Grate the cheese through the fine holes of a box grater, or with the fine shredding disk in the food processor. In a food processor fitted with a steel blade or with a mixer, cream the cheese and butter until fluffy and smooth.
Add the cayenne, salt and flour and process or work it into the dough until smooth. Gather it into a ball, wrap well in plastic wrap or wax paper, and chill it for a half an hour. Don’t let it chill hard. If you make the dough ahead to bake later, let soften at room temperature so that it’s pliable, especially if you are using a cookie press.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325 F degrees. Put the dough in a cookie press fitted with the star die and press it out onto an ungreased baking sheet into narrow 2 1/2-inch straws, leaving about 1/2 inch clear between. The dough can also be rolled out on a lightly floured a work surface about ¼-inch thick and cut it with a sharp knife or a zigzag pastry wheel into 1/2-inch by 2 1/2-inch strips. Or, roll the dough into logs and slice them into 1/2-inch rounds. Lay the straws on the baking sheet as you go.
Bake for 16 to 18 minutes, being careful not to let them brown. The bottoms should be golden, but the tops and sides should not color. Cool on the pan or on wire racks before transferring them to an airtight storage container.
CHRISTMAS TO GO
Main Street Meat’s Christmas take-home meals are a real time saver if you’re in a crunch, but plan ahead, the deadline for orders is Friday and includes the popular Niman Ranch standing rib roast — a holiday classic. Also on the menu are smoked holiday hams and beef tenderloin roasts, as well as a nice selection of sides and desserts. Check out all the offerings at mainstreetmeatschatt.com. Orders may be placed online or by calling 423-602-9568.
(READ MORE: Chattanooga restaurants offer preorders for Christmas)
Contact Anne Braly at abraly@timesfreepress.com.