I’ve never been a fan of vegetarian food. I’m a meat lover. Sure, I love vegetables and could even sustain on them for a good week, during the summer especially. But vegan restaurants are another thing. Seaweed for salt? No thanks. And I won’t even mention the stuff that some vegan eateries call cheese.
But after trying Sluggo’s, I’ve changed my mind completely about what a vegetarian restaurant can be.
THE MENU
The menu promises nachos, chili, salad, sandwiches and so forth, but when you look at the details you realize how different they are.
Think about it: Chili has meat. Vegetarians don’t eat meat, so you’re probably looking at soy meat. Nachos have cheese, so you’ll be enjoying chips with some sort of vegetable substitute.
Under normal circumstances, I’d take a pass on such alternatives. But at Sluggo’s, I happily discovered, you won’t be missing out on flavor or texture with any dish.
The order (for two): Mushroom-walnut burger with salad and garlic mashed potatoes with mushroom gravy ($7.25); Sweet Chili Thai Bowl ($7.50).
To prove how this restaurant won me over, I’ll begin at the end. When we had eaten all we could possibly eat — this restaurant serves large portions — my dining partner and I decided right then that we’d order the same thing over again, but this time, we’d share. I loved her burger, and she really liked my Thai bowl.
The “burger” had so many pleasing flavors and textures, it was hard to pick out any in particular. The walnuts added a nice little crunch, and the mushrooms offered a meaty kind of flavor. But with its slice of “cheese,” lettuce, tomato and Russian dressing, the flavor reached new heights. This is one burger that won’t have you missing beef, for sure. I really liked it for a change.
If you goWhere: Sluggo’s North Vegetarian Cafe, 501 Cherokee Blvd.Phone: 752-5224.Price range: $2.50-$9.50.Alcohol: Beer.Hours: 5 p.m.-3 a.m. Tuesday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5 p.m.-3 a.m. Wednesday-Saturday,Payment: Cash and major credit cards.
The potatoes were freshly mashed and topped with some kind of gravy and scallions. Very good.
The salad with candied pecans and balsamic dressing finished the plate. It’s too much for most appetites, so it’s an excellent choice to split between two people.
The Sweet Chili Thai Bowl came with chopsticks. It was a nice presentation but totally impractical for my two left thumbs. My fork, though, led me to one of the most remarkable vegetarian meals I’ve ever experienced.
The tofu was browned and tossed with lots of crunchy brown rice, peanuts, crisp cabbage and scallions in a sweet, very slightly hot, Thai chili sauce. This is a bowl full of color, taste and texture. I really loved it and didn’t miss the chicken or shrimp I’d normally find in such a dish.
Other top choices include the Curry Bowl, $7.50; grilled black bean burrito, $6.50-$7.50; The Berliner (think Reuben) $5.75-$7.50; and the Philly Seitan, $5.75-$7.50.
THE SERVICE
Orders are placed at the front counter and delivered to your table. There are bottled soft drinks and beer in the refrigerator case behind the counter, or you can get your own soft drink and nonbottled water from a soda fountain. My only complaint about the entire meal was found here: There was no ice to be found. Thankfully, the water was cool enough.
THE SPACE
Sluggo’s is in an old building along Cherokee Boulevard. The inside boasts bright colors and gleaming hardwood floor. There’s a large parking lot in back. There was no rear entrance into the restaurant that I could see, but it’s a short walk around to the front.
THE VERDICT
I will admit to turning my nose when I was first told I should try this new vegetarian restaurant in town. Now I can see why it’s turning heads. There’s finally a vegetarian eatery in town that will become one of my mainstay restaurants.