I had to take a second look as I stood outside J&J’s Diner on Cherry Street. In my mind, this landmark location may forever be associated with its longtime business, Shapiro’s Deli, even though the restaurant has gone through new owners and stints of closures over the past few years.
So when I looked at the board outside offering the day’s specials, including broccoli-cheese soup and chicken and dressing, seeing the different restaurant name took me by surprise. But it turned out to be a good one.
THE MENU
I asked co-owner Junior Crutcher, one of the two J’s — the other is his wife, Jamie Shirley — if the soup was homemade. “Daily,” he said. “I make it from scratch, along with all the dressings. Want a sample bite?”
Who am I to turn down a sample of homemade soup?
We took a seat, and within seconds the soup was delivered. It was excellent. One taste had me wishing that it was cold outside instead of a warm spring day. I’d have ordered a large bowl. However, the warmth of the day demanded a grilled chicken salad so I could sample some of the homemade dressings. My lunch partner had the turkey and dressing.
To more fully experience the menu, I ordered small cups of three dressings: balsamic vinaigrette, blue cheese and hot bacon. The salad was excellent and came with very tender, flavorful strips of grilled chicken atop a nice mix of greens, cheese, cucumbers and cherry tomatoes. This salad was made even better with the blue cheese and really good balsamic, though I wasn’t too crazy about the hot bacon. I would have preferred it a little sweeter; this one was more vinegar-based.
My next trip to J&J’s will be for the modified salad bar. In a refrigerated case near the entrance are all the different things you can add: blue cheese crumbles, meats, tomatoes and other vegetables. It’s a nice selection. You choose, and a server will fill your plate. No sneeze guards or worries about food getting too warm here. It’s a clean, protected way to enjoy a salad bar.
My lunch pal’s chicken and dressing was a comfort-food classic. The chicken was fork-tender, the dressing made from scratch with just the right seasonings. An excellent choice.
Other tastes of note: The chicken salad with grapes and nuts is excellent and full of flavor. Corn muffins looked very good. Fried chicken and homemade chili are served every day. Chili is a bit hot for the summer for my taste, though maybe it’s a good bet for escaping a cold office. If you’re a chili fan, here’s where you can get it year-round. Breakfast is also offered: biscuits, bacon, grits, eggs and omelets.
THE SERVICE
Our server, Trisha, couldn’t have been more congenial and willing to bring us the samples as well as refills and simply to stop by and check on things.
THE SPACE
J&J’s has a shotgun design with tables on one side and the salad center/counter on the other. Wall mirrors help to magnify the room. It’s very clean with a simple blueprint that defines most any diner.
THE VERDICT
J&J’s is in the heart of downtown’s old business district. The addition of another restaurant helps bring the area back to life. It’s in the center of things and a great place to walk in and be welcomed to good people and good food. Nothing fancy, just good. One look at the menu will tell you that: “Everything is made in-house from scratch daily.”
If you go
* Where: J&J’s Diner, 723 Cherry St.
* Phone: 634-2300.
* Hours: 7 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Friday.
* Price range: $1.95-$5.35 (breakfast); $5.95-$9.95 (lunch).
* Payment: Cash and major credit cards.
* Alcohol: No.