World-class speed climber Hans Florine is known to begin his climbing fitness classes by referring to The Karate Kid. Specifically the part where Daniel is forced by Mr. Miyagi to do manual labor (“wax on, wax off”) and Daniel is frustrated because all he wants to do is learn some wicked-cool karate moves.
But according to Florine, to become a stronger and less injury-prone climber, you must take the time to wax the car. Or, in Florine’s case, formulate a workout that will strengthen your body when the time comes to master a slim ledge or towering peak.
“I’ve taken a lot of yoga classes, and I would hold a pose and think, ‘That’s exactly like climbing,'” says Florine. As a record holder for fastest climb up El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, Florine has been asked to teach his techniques to climbers all over the nation. He didn’t, however, see how he could do that in a classroom with a chalkboard. Nor could he imagine getting 30-plus climbers on the same climbing gym wall, so he created a hybrid approach with his climbing fitness classes – a sort of climbing-inspired yoga.
In his classes, Florine emphasizes increasing posterior core strength by using small but significant movements that cause your muscles to feel like they might catch fire with the effort. Other poses stretch the body from feet to finger tips to avoid injury. “You can’t go speed climbing if you’re injured. In fact, you couldn’t do any kind of climbing,” says Florine. “If your core is strong, oftentimes you can protect yourself from injury.”
Tips from Climber Hans Florine
1. Finger Splits While sitting on a yoga mat, place a yoga block on each side of your body. Place your hands on the blocks, with your index finger pointing forward and other three fingers pointing backward, effectively causing your hands to do the “splits.” Move your middle finger forward to join your index finger, then your ring finger and so on. Once you are finished, start over with your pinky finger. Don’t forget to stretch the thumbs out as well. This quick stretch is essential to avoid hand injuries while tackling a tough problem, says Florine.2. Group Circle Exercise In a group setting, stand in a circle with shoulders nearly touching. Take a yoga block and place it on the side of the shin of the person to your right. Lift your foot and place the outside of it against the block, holding it in place. Balance by leaning on the person to the right, while the person to your left leans on you. The harder you press your foot into the block, the more balance the group will have. Then, while maintaining the balance, pass two or three medicine balls around the circle, depending on the size of the group.3. Sit-Ups (Jane Fonda Style)In this movement, start on your back with legs straight up in the air, so your body is a 90-degree angle. Bend the left leg down, and notice how the pose ensures that the small of your back is flat against the ground. Slowly lower your legs, and as you feel the small of your back begin to arch, lift your shoulders to keep it flat against the ground. Lower your legs as far as you can while crunching your abs as hard as you can and hold. Then rest, and do the other side.