MILAN (AP) – Reflecting on a Milan Fashion Week that marked the re-emergence of denim and the pre-eminence of the flat Birkenstock-inspired sandal, the question was bound to surface: Wherein lies luxury?
Milan designers, who crammed the usual six days of womenswear previews for next summer into 4 ½ ending Sunday, are clear on their response: in Italy’s artisanal traditions.
Whether reviving the dying art of brocade in the factories north of Milan, perfecting sartorial crafts to create new shapes, or honoring the centuries-old Murano glass-blowing traditions with textiles mimicking its melting striations, Milan designers touted Made in Italy, the calling card that distinguishes Italian brands and, more often than one might expect, raises ready-to-wear to an art form.
Giorgio Armani, who rolled out the summer collection that will herald his company’s 40th anniversary, is all about mastery – but avoids the term luxury altogether.
“Luxury is surrounded by other things, super-decorated stores,” Armani told reporters last week after showing his main Giorgio Armani line. “Rich can be of substance, refer to content, to the workmanship. Sometimes luxury has zero workmanship.”