There are people who love both tacos and fish sandwiches, so what is it about fish tacos that turn off many of those same people?
Mojo Burrito, with three locations in Chattanooga, put fish tacos on the menu 10 years ago, the first in town to do so, says owner Eve Williams. At the time, she says at least half of Mojo’s patrons were hesitant to try them.
“They were turned off by the concept,” she says, but they were encouraged to try them with a money-back guarantee if they didn’t like them. After their first taste, none asked for their money back, she says.
Now people seem very accustomed to the concept of fish tacos, so much so that Williams says they are among the most-popular items on Mojo’s menu.
Anne BralyA version of the fish taco got its start south of the border thousands of years ago when indigenous North Americans first wrapped their daily catch in a stone-ground tortilla. But the modern fish taco, with slaw and dressing, got its start on the streets of Ensenada, Calif., when enterprising street vendors began selling them from their pushcarts back in the 1950s.
Like many street foods, a fish taco is perplexing: It’s a humble handful that belies the taste explosion you get with every bite. That’s because the fish taco has it all; it’s crispy and creamy, spicy and salty, and it satisfies the craving for crunch.
Fish tacos can be made with grilled fish, but for a true experience, the fish should be fried and placed on a lightly charred, soft-corn tortilla, then topped with any number of sauces; to name a few in the orchestra of available flavors: traditional cole slaw, pineapple salsa, mango salsa, traditional salsa or fish sauce, very similar to the white shrimp sauce you find in Japanese restaurants.
And a fish taco isn’t complete without some kind of avocado creation, whether it be a version of guacamole or a simple spread of chopped avocados.
For those who still can’t fathom the idea of fish in a taco, Williams says they must not be very adventurous, “or have not traveled much or dined out very much.”
Here are some places to find fish tacos in Chattanooga, showing the diversity of an unpretentious dish that offers such a bold gustatory experience.
‘ Big River Grille: Tequila-lime marinated mahi-mahi served with avocado, shredded cabbage, salsa roja, Mexican crema, tomatillo salsa and crumbled farmer’s cheese.
‘ Taco Mamacita: Panko-breaded tilapia served with crispy Napa cabbage, Mexican white sauce, pico de gallo, sliced radishes and cilantro.
‘ T.Mac: Blackened wild Pacific cod topped with housemade cole slaw, enchilada sour cream and pico de gallo.
‘ Mojo Burrito: Fried tilapia tenders served with fresh jalapenos, housemade remoulade and pineapple salsa.
‘ J Alexander’s: Fried white fish served with avocado and chili mayonnaise.
‘ Bluewater Grille: Blackened Ahi tuna topped with Miso slaw and sliced avocado and garnished with cilantro and sriracha sauce.
‘ Blue Ribbon Cafe (Fridays only): Fried tilapia tenders served with housemade pineapple salsa and fish sauce.
Want to try your hand at making your own? You can always buy fried fish at your favorite fast-food fish restaurant, bring it home and wrap it up with store-bought cole slaw. But for the true experience, start from scratch. Here’s how they do it at Bon Appetit. It’s a recipe I’ve used several times. It’s involved to some degree, but truly worth the effort.
Fish Tacos
2 pounds skinless mild white fish fillets (snapper, orange roughy and tilapia are good choices)
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup white rice flour
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 cups club soda
Vegetable oil (for frying; about 8 cups)
16 small corn tortillas (32 if you would like to use 2 per taco)
Cabbage and jicama slaw (recipe follows)
Hot sauce, sliced pickled jalapeno peppers, sliced avocado, cilantro leaves with tender stems, lime wedges, for serving
Remove any pin bones from fish fillets (using tweezers makes this easy). Cut each fillet in half lengthwise. Cut each half on a diagonal into 1-inch strips, working with the natural shape of the fish as you cut. This will help the pieces stay together instead of falling apart when frying.
Whisk all-purpose flour, rice flour and salt in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in club soda until no lumps remain; adjust with more club soda or rice flour as needed to make it the consistency of thin pancake batter. It should be pourable, but thick enough to coat the fish.
Fit a large pot with a deep-fry thermometer and pour in oil to measure 2 inches. Heat over medium-high heat until thermometer registers 350 degrees.
Working in batches of five to seven pieces at a time, coat fish in batter, letting excess drip off, then carefully place in oil. To avoid splattering, lower fish into oil pointing away from you. Don’t overcrowd the pot because the oil temperature will drop dramatically and fish may stick together.
Fry fish, turning occasionally with a fish spatula or slotted spoon and maintaining oil temperature at 350 degrees until crust is puffed, crisp and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet; season immediately with salt.
While fish is frying, wrap up a stack of tortillas in a sheet of foil and heat in a 350-degree oven until warmed. Cover with a clean kitchen towel to keep warm.
Top the tortillas with fish, hot sauce, avocado, cilantro, and jalapenos. Serve with lime wedges.
Cabbage and Jicama Slaw
5 cups green cabbage, very thinly sliced
1 small jicama, peeled and julienned (about 1 cup)
4 scallions, very thinly sliced
1 bunch cilantro or parsley, chopped
1/2 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon lime zest, finely grated
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/2 cup mayonnaise
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Separate cilantro stems and leaves (you should have about 1/2 cup of each); coarsely chop leaves and set aside. Purée cilantro stems, sour cream, lime zest and fresh lime juice in a blender.
Transfer cilantro mixture to a large bowl and whisk in mayonnaise; season with salt and pepper. Toss in green cabbage, jicama, scallions and cilantro/parsley leaves.
Contact Anne Braly at abraly@timesfreepress.com.